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This log runs through June 3, 2003 March 7, 2003 crossing the Gulf Stream As we were leaving Boot Key Harbor this morning the cell phone rang. It was Jim and Denise calling from a friend's sailboat -- only one mile away! They were looking for a place to anchor, but when we suggested they follow us across the Gulf Stream they said "sure." This crossing is not to be taken lightly. A north wind can quickly build huge seas in the north-flowing stream. We have friends who ran into so much trouble that the Coast Guard sent a helicopter in case an evacuation from the boat became necessary. It wasn't, but it was a close call.
Check out this photo. It was taken in the middle of the Gulf Stream, and the seas are almost flat, a sailor’s prayer. We timed it perfectly! March 8, 2003 on the Great Bahamas Bank
Check this photo carefully. It’s hard to see where water ends and air begins on the horizon. Are are many miles from land, and yet Becky was able to swim without a tether in perfectly calm conditions. This is what all the work is for. March 9, 2003 at Morgan's Bluff, Andros Island, The Bahamas March 14, 2003 anchored at Morgan's Bluff CLICK HERE for photos of the Bahamas.
We are always concerned about the quality and quantity of our water. Fortunately, huge ships like this load up here at Morgan's Bluff and transport all the water used in Nassau. The friendly people at the dock let us fill up without charge. We're not talking solely about drinking water -- this is all water we use for every purpose. At fifty cents or more per gallon in most of the Bahamas, the cost of washing out a few socks could really add up. Oh wait, we don't wear socks! March 23, 2002 Talk about The Berries! On a calm day we motored our dinghy, "Scout" to isolated and uninhabited Cat Key, where conchs (pronounced konks) were everywhere. We're now loaded down with shells. Yesterday we returned to Morgan's Bluff. As mentioned above, it's one of the few places in the Bahamas where we can get free water. The captain of the ship that transports this water to Nassau for public consumption says that this water can kill us. It hasn't yet. CLICK HERE for enlargeable photos from the Bahamas. March 30, 2003 in Nassau harbor at anchor Because a significant storm is forecast, we sailed to Nassau in search of shelter. We really enjoyed the sail over, which was beautiful, even though a rain shower brought gusty winds for a while. Finally, land ho -- Nassau. The anchorage is shallow but the holding good. It seems strange to look up and see a Las Vegas style complex called Atlantis. And the sky above the Club Med shows the first signs of what is forecast to be a significant approaching storm. It'll be a sleepless "anchor watch" night for sure. March 31, 2003 in Nassau harbor at anchor April 1, 2003 Map: Bahamas sailing so far April 4, 2003 at anchor in Nassau Harbor On the other hand, tourists at "Atlantis" experience glamor and elegance -- and in a terrific aquarium are treated to fabulous examples of fish, coral, eels, and jellyfish that look like flying saucers. We're about to head to the Exumas -- or if the wind doesn't cooperate -- the Abacos. Life is too short to buck the wind the whole way. April 8, 2003 at Alan's Cay (pronounced key) the Exumas (in the Bahamas) After going to the dentist and restocking fresh food in Nassau, we had a blustery six-hour trip to Allen's Cay. After wending our way around huge coral heads in the open sea, any one of which could have seriously damaged Pioneer, we approached the island and the water turned a beautiful aqua blue. We dropped the hook, surveyed the scene, settled in, at at sunset Don played taps on his trumpet. This area has beautiful reefs and clear water, but the biggest draw: Iguanas -- huge Iguanas of a type found nowhere else on earth. When people approach the beach, Iguanas up to three feet long march right up, looking for handouts. These creatures are frightening in appearance and the beach scene can be intimidating. But not being easy to intimidate, Becky copped her own frightening stance. We'd sure like to be able report that the Iguanas were frightened witless. April 9, 2003 on Allen's Cay's clear water April 13, 2003 at Norman's Cay, Exumas WOW! We've always thought it better to make tracks than follow them -- and that was true again. Protruding from the water, we found a casualty of the illegal drug industry of years past. Locals say the airplane in the water was being used illicitly when it crashed in the bay some 20 years ago. Today it's nothing more than a ghostly artificial reef and a pleasant perch for seabirds. April 15, 2003 at Norman's drug cartel hideout! We found the runway that, until the mid 1980's, was an important way point for airplanes laden with narcotics from Latin American countries, their cargo bound for the United States. Today you can land your private or chartered plane here. In the Bad Old Days, cartel members lived at the end of little roads, in houses hidden in the vegetation. The cars they once drove on the few roads here are seriously deteriorating, as are the house interiors. (There must have been women here: it doesn't seem likely that drug cartel thugs would have put up flowered wallpaper). We found one legitimate business here. You can beach your dinghy and order a large moderately acceptable overcooked hamburger with fries for $10 at MacDuff's. (Don't ask unnecessary questions of the lady in charge at noon; she gets a little testy when there are more than two tables of customers). Tourists, who can only get here via private boat or plane (or a charter), can rent one of the three one-bedroom bungalows (six rental units in three buildings) on the western beach for a mere $225 per day (meals not included). Our recommendation for your stay: save your money and befriend someone with a sailboat. April 16, 2003 at Norman's Cay April 17, 2002 -- It's the water! April 20, 2003 Easter Sunday in Black Point, the Exumas Near our destination we had a horrific time coming through the narrow cut from the deep water of Exuma Sound (3,000 feet) to the shallow water on the bank (15 feet) because the tide was against us and the wind was against the tide. There are no pictures because we were hanging on for dear life as Pioneer was pounded by sheer 10-12 foot walls of water agitating us violently from all directions while large rock cliffs loomed on both sides only a few hundred feet away. It was like being shrunken and tossed in a huge washing machine. We had the sails down and were motoring, but Don found that even bringing the big new engine to full power and attempting to control the boat with full lock-to-lock steering corrections barely keep us under control. Huge waves broke completely over the boat and we took sea water down the companionway. Down below, besides being soaked with salt water, many things were thrown around and our safely stowed coffee pot was broken (the second to suffer this fate). Once through the narrow gap the water magically became smooth as a mirror. It was an eerie localized event that could have been disastrous. We have learned a good lesson. We report this because people following this site might otherwise get the impression, because we tend to focus on beautiful and special events, that sailing is unendingly wonderful. Indeed, there are magic moments, but the challenges are great, the frustrations constant and the physical and emotional tests unending. One small example: yesterday, in relatively calm seas (3-5 feet) Becky was fixing some lunch in the galley and had just poured some ravioli onto a plate when a wave hit us hard from the side. The plate didn't move, but the ravioli flew from the plate across the boat and ended up clinging to a locker door. You don't think about beautiful sunsets at moments like that. You do think about keeping your PFD on and and tether attached to something. We attended a real stem winder of an Easter service at this Baptist Church in Black Point). Quite an experience. The people are are delightful and the town very welcoming to sailors. They make reasonable amounts of water available free, which is a good reason to come here. In George Town, drinkable water is 85 cents per gallon. If we're running low, we take on 150-160 gallons at a gulp. April 22, 2003 in George Town Harbor, the Exumas, Bahamas We're here for the annual Family Island Regatta featuring Bahamian style boat racing. Entrants are from throughout the Bahamas. Notice the size of this sail. The huge booms and tall masts are very impressive. (Note posted later: Here is an interesting shot taken in Georgetown in the Exumas. Becky took it from the top of the mast, looking straight down. We were lucky to salvage this photo, given that our camera died, and at the end of our trip back to America our computer died too, taking scores of great shots with it.) Today's bad news: Drat! We just ran out of American beer, and beer purchased here costs $40-60 per case. The good news: Bahamian coconut rum is pretty good and is much cheaper! For those who prefer milk, it's available at only $8 per gallon. April 25, 2003 celebrating in George Town, Exuma Islands The partying goes on all night, but when the parade is over tired sailors hop in their dinghies and head out of the town lake into the anchorage by passing beneath the town's main road. We bought 10 gallons of gasoline today: $34.80! We realized this morning that if you left from where we are now and flew a plane directly over the North Pole and just kept going until you logged 10,000 miles, you'd be very close to this very special area of the world where volunteers help people who have nothing but hope. Because images such as these are embedded so deeply in our minds, we know there will come a day when we return there. May 1, 2003 -- Squalls in the Exumas When the storm let up we watched massive black clouds and to our amazement, a waterspout (which is a tornado over water) formed. With our storm-tattered American flag in the foreground, we watched the waterspout sucking up sea water, finally reaching a point just over one mile away before it dissipated. (Looking Back: We want to thank James Vander Schaaf of the sailboat Justice (closest, in this photo). We had given him a copy of this digital picture on CD before we left Norman’s. Later, when we lost many photos in our twin camera-computer disasters, James was kind enough to email this one back to us). As we write this, squalls are raging again and Pioneer is pitching wildly at anchor. So far two boats "dragged anchor," but have been able to get a new "set" before being blown seriously aground. Once again we are thankful to have purchased the biggest anchors and strongest chain Pioneer can carry. We pay a lot of attention when storm clouds gather. May 4, 2003 back in Nassau What a trip! Holy Cow. Here we are in the middle of the Gulf Stream, 115 miles off the coast of South Carolina and more than half way from Nassau to Beaufort, North Carolina. We have been lucky with the winds, and the current is giving us absolutely terrific speed. We’re prepared to get out of the Stream ASAP if the wind shifts to the north, but so far it’s just great. June 4, 2003 in Solomons, Maryland, USA There was no damage to Pioneer, but our computer was thrown to its death as Pioneer rolled onto her side in the current and wind. Hence, our slowness in updating this site with a terrific just-arrived Dell Inspiron 8500. We regret that the photos of our longest and fastest trip at sea died with the computer. We had some great shots, including several of a little songbird (not a sea bird) that joined us for several hours 115 miles offshore. She had no fear of us, frequently landing on us to checking herself out in the mirror down below. After pecking furiously on a plum, she was gone. After living aboard and traveling 5000 miles aboard Pioneer over the past 18 months, anchoring wherever we could, we have finally taken a slip at a marina in Solomons. We'll be driving out west soon, attending reunions and visiting family, and Pioneer will be safe here. We love her, but it's time to visit the dirt dwellers. PREVIOUS LOG or |
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Our crossing with a light southerly wind was fabulous. In the open ocean we took a picture of Rejoice and they took one of Pioneer. The crossing from Marathon to South Riding Rock on the Great Bahamas Bank took about 19 hours.
After traveling another forty miles, we anchored for the night beyond sight of land. This was the perfect place for Becky to go swimming. The big shark we saw earlier wasn't around.
At the bottom end of the self-sufficiency spectrum we have recently came to know the owner of a big sailboat who shouldn't be out here at all. We won't name this irresponsible "sailor" but his boat’s name is “Rejoice” and he is a danger to himself and others. If he has insurance, the company has been hoodwinked. The list of his broken or unserviced equipment seems unending and his total lack of preparation is deplorable. This guy is more irresponsible than "Captain Ron" of the movie by that name. We question whether he could have found his way across the Gulf Stream if he hadn't followed another boat. Worse, he is reluctant to admit his shortcomings and is therefore difficult to help. Neptune, God of the Seas will be hard pressed to protect this guy from the numerous ways he could come to grief.
At the other end of the scale are Dave and Mindy of the tiny sailing vessel Little Cruiser. Not only do they live with their two birds on a 15 foot boat (which would fit in a typical living room), they sail the open ocean and travel months on end.But Dave and Mindy are sailors' sailors. They live by the month in a boat the precise length of a Honda Accord and only three-quarters as wide! "Little Cruiser" has a draft of only nine inches, about the depth of a bathtub. As opposed to the sorry excuse for a sailor mentioned above, this fascinating couple is accomplished, talented and adventuresome in the most positive and mature sense of the sailing tradition. Check out their website at www.microcruising.com.
Thanks to the diving skills of our friends on Willow, we became safely tied to a mooring chain before we encountered a series of storms. One blow brought winds to 45 knots.
