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This log runs through July 13, 2000 April 5, 2000 in Chandler, Arizona, USA April 22, through Monday, May 1, 2000 CLICK HERE to view enlargeable Utah Photos May 2, 2000 in Salt Lake City, Utah May 3, 2000 in Buhl, Idaho The Gypsy Camp is shaping up nicely. We've used it on the road for the first time. Everything is stocked and in good order, and now we finally have all the comforts of home no matter where we are. And no snakes. May 5, 2000 in Miracle Hot Springs, Idaho May 6, 2000 in Emigrant Springs State Park, Oregon May 7, 2000 Emigrant Springs State Park to Portland, Oregon More crisscrossing of the Oregon Trail today, and taking advantage of having our own camper with us wherever we go. It was great to pull into a scenic Oregon rest stop and fix our own lunch in our own little portable home. May 14, 2000 (Mother's Day) on the Canadian border May 15, 2000 near Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada May 16, 2000 in Vancouver, British Columbia CLICK HERE to view enlargeable Canada photos. For $115 (Canadian) we boarded the ferry to Vancouver Island, a two hour trip. Quarters were tight for the Gypsy Wagon and Camp, but all went well. The weather continues to be perfect. The view from the ferry was terrific, and the snow covered mountains in the distance are beautiful. We are moving into areas explored by fewer and fewer people, and it’s becoming more isolated. May 18, 2000 on Vancouver Island The chilly weather didn't keep a Chinese family from digging for clams on the beach. They were quite excited about having dragged dinner from the sand. Isolated Telegraph Cove south of Port Hardy (no relation!) is fascinating. It's a fishing, logging and sightseeing (killer whales) center of no more than 50 year-round residents. May 21, 2000 in Port Hardy, Vancouver Island, BC The weather in Prince Rupert is cold, windy and rainy. We set the trailer up at midnight, as the wind violently ripped an awning off a nearby motor home. The rain was sometimes interrupted by bouts of hail. May 22, 2000 east of Prince Rupert, BC We came across a campground in as idyllic a setting as could be imagined. It was awesome. We stopped for lunch along the Exchamsiks River. But it must have been difficult to put a rail line through to the coast at Prince Rupert. May 23, 2000 in Canada's wilderness The majesty of this area is incredible. Huge snow covered mountains make us wonder if we've arrived too soon. We found frozen lakes and bears tasting their first breath of early spring. However, the bears can be a serious problem. Rebecca wanted to go for a jog and asked at the reception desk about recommended routes. The response was to run wherever you want, "but watch out for the bears!" Rebecca didn't go for a run. The highway is in good shape, up to a point. Then it narrows into 120 miles of gravel populated by huge trucks. And obviously, the road takes its toll on many vehicles. In the few towns along the route old buildings show the wear and tear of winters when low temperatures frequently hover at -30F. But the Totem Poles withstand the weather. We came across a nice collection. May 25, 2000 in Watson Lake, Yukon The long drive up the remaining 225 miles of highway 37 was amazing. We drove in sleet, hail, rain, snow and beautiful scenery. There were warnings not to stop because of avalanche danger. This area is like Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks combined, except that they would fit in a small corner of this huge expanse of natural splendor. The only flaw; thousands of acres of burned trees as a result of a campfire that wasn't extinguished in 1982. Portions of the road were very rough or under construction. But that didn't taken anything from beauty of the mountains rising above frozen lakes. At one point on the Cassiar Highway, we were seemingly a hundred miles from the nearest settlement, or sign of human life, in any direction. To our surprise, we saw someone running down the road! His face was covered in a red bandana, and he carried a spirit staff in his hand. We stopped, and Rebecca jumped out of the Denali to offer water, which he accepted. In response to her questions about why he was here in this isolated place, he explained that he's a part of a group of thirty Indians who are running from Alaska to Mexico City. He is a participant in the Peace and Dignity Journey, whose mission, according to this young man from Arizona, is to "unite indigenous peoples' from across North America." Throughout the day, we saw three of these runners on this remote road, and a couple of support vehicles. We were thrilled to witness this wonderful journey first hand, particularly in such a remote area where they are not actively surrounded by their legions of supporters. Also, it was tremendously impressive to us, as we had considered ourselves fairly adventurous for making this trek in th May 28, 2000 in Whitehorse, Yukon The road to Whitehorse runs through mountains and more mountains -- and past a few bears. Many people find the need to protect the front of their vehicles with huge cages to fend off rocks, gravel and small animals. Just north of Whitehorse is a natural hot springs pool called Takhani. It's a great place for a soak, no matter the time of year. While we were there, the air temp was 54 degrees. One woman told of being there when it was -37F. CLICK HERE to view additional enlargeable Canada photos. June 3, 2000, crossing the Arctic Circle
Beyond the monument, the gravel road leads to Ft. McPherson, and then another 120 miles to Inuvik, the northernmost point to which one can drive a wheeled vehicle in Canada. However, for a 10 days period in the spring the road is closed between the monument and Ft. McPherson while the "ice bridge" at the Peel River is in spring "breakup." Then summer ferry service begins. Because the road is closed at the 335 milepost, we had the entire road almost to ourselves. We left the trailer in Dawson City and proceeded in the capable GMC Denali. Of the 550 miles we drove that day and in the twilight through the night, we saw only two other vehicles. A breakdown or medical problem here would have been a very serious situation. The beauty of this drive is breathtaking beyond description. Hundreds of untouched mountain valleys stretch into the far distance. There is no sign of humanity, other than the road. We saw bear, moose, porcupine, Arctic Hare and beautiful birds. On the drive back in the soft light of the midnight sun, an Arctic Fox ran across the road before us, dropping a large duck he was carrying. After we passed, he ran from the woods, grabbed the duck and dashed off. At 1:30 A.M. we stopped at Two Moose Lake, where ducks and a swan were busy feeding on submerged plant life in the still twilight. A half hour later we sat quietly as a herd of 10 Caribou climbed onto the road ahead, looked us over, and bounded gracefully into the hills.
Where we were, it never got dark. On the return drive, our headlights could barely be seen on the road. Then occurred the most incredible coincidence of our lives! After milling around for two hours, a vehicle finally came down from the north (especially unlikely because that's toward where the road is closed). The couple hadn't intended to stop at the monument, but Becky waved them over to see if they would take our picture in front of the sign. They told us they had turned around because of a flat tire in a rough area ahead. When they stopped to see what we wanted, we noted that their right rear tire was also flat. As Don and Joan Gardner of Calgary, Alberta were then stranded, we offered to take them and their two tires back down the road 24 miles to the only gas station on a 350 mile stretch of gravel. This is the only gas station I know where a sign indicates that the attendant has to be summoned from the lounge! As they began to remove the flat tire, I noted their Alberta license plate and mentioned that in Mexico a few months earlier we had met a couple from Red Deer, Alberta. Don said: "In Mexico, you met people from Red Deer? Was it Marge and Murray?" I said, "WHAT???" We had waited two hours for someone to come by and take our picture, and the ONLY people to come down the road just happened to be friends with the only people we know from Alberta, and we only knew them because we ran into them in Mexico. We discovered all this in idle conversation within five minutes.
And on this particular day, it was unusual to meet ANYONE. On our way home, 275 miles, not a single vehicle passed in either direction. The fact that the only vehicle we encountered in all those miles of remote driving contained people who, when I said, "I know people from Red Deer," responded, "Was it Marge and Murray?" is absolutely extraordinary. We met Marge and Murray Arnold of Red Deer in Mexico when they happened across in the little apartment building where we were living. They only know Don and Joan because the two women crossed paths at a university in Canada. Can you imagine the odds against going to one of the most remote places in another country and accidentally finding out from the only people you find there that they know someone you met by random chance while traveling in a third country? And further, isn't it odd that standing on the Arctic Circle, the conversation with strangers went almost instantly to a discovery of that fact? June 4, 2000 in Dawson City, Yukon This town is at the end of the road. Only after the Yukon River ice breaks up in early May can one continue on the ferry west, toward Alaska over the Top of the World Highway. The ferry is free, provided by the Yukon Territory -- but the user assumes all risks of using it. While we were there the weather in Dawson was pleasant enough. But in the winter, temperatures are commonly -30 and can go as low as -70f. The amazing thing is how the thawing and freezing cycles are slowly working entire buildings right into the ground. The Top of the World Highway truly earns its name. A strenuous drive high in the mountains toward the Alaska border is closed much of the year. The U.S. border station is on a barren mountainside. Beyond it, Alaska's Taylor Highway is not paved and provides a particular challenge, especially to large vehicles. The 117 mile Taylor Highway provides terrific scenery, close access to animals such as Caribou, and glimpses of gold mining both past and present. June 10, 2000 at McCarthy, Alaska Unpaved the last 60 miles, and dead-ending at the Copper River (where one is charged $10 to park overnight on a pile of rocks), the final mile involves crossing the river on a foot bridge and hiking to the tiny berg of McCarthy. Fortunately, vehicles have been driven across the river ice the previous winter, so transportation is available for the 4 mile trip up to the mine. The main mine structure, perched below huge mountains and at the foot of a massive glacier, is fascinating. A hotel and restaurant operate in the summer, and day-hikers trek across mountain streams onto the glacier. It's hard to believe that this awesome structure and the railroad connecting it to the real world cost only $100 million -- and that by the time the mine was closed the company had amassed a $100 million profit. June 8, 2000 in Valdez, Alaska June 24, 2000 in Anchorage, Alaska CLICK HERE to view enlargeable Alaska photos. June 30, 2000, Talkeetna, Alaska We are enjoying one of the important benefits of full time travel, which is to wait until the weather improves before taking an expensive excursion. We have spoken with several charter 'flightseeing' companies, and have selected one to fly us over Denali National Park, around the peaks and glaciers. The weather has been a bit rainy down here (and certainly very snowy up on Mt. McKinley), so we are simply enjoying local activities while waiting for the best weather and visibility for a flightseeing trip. As you may know, Mount McKinley is the highest point in North America, and several other major peaks reside inside Denali National Park. July 4, 2000 in Seward, Alaska
You have to be there to appreciate this race as it is the ultimate in athletic conditioning and will power. The winner in the men's race charged up the mountain and tore back down in just under 46 minutes. The fastest woman was under 55 minutes. Following them were hundreds of superb athletes, many covered by mud and occasionally a little blood. While in Seward, it's an easy drive to the face of Exit Glacier, which has long ago receded from the bay, but which still affords a wonderful close up glacier experience. The blue color of the ice occurs after great pressures have forced out all of the air and the remaining pure water absorbs all colors of the spectrum except blue. We try to avoid commercial sightseeing trips because of their expense, regimen and commercialization. But our catamaran trip with Wildlife Quest was an incomparable experience. There is no better way to see the best of Alaska's wildlife and glaciers. Several companies make this trip, but we recommend Wildlife Quest because their boat is faster than the others, allowing stops in more special places in a given time. And a catamaran is less likely to promote seasickness in heavy seas. This day produced some of the best pictures of our trip so far. This six hour trip into the fjords was crammed with the most awesome scenery imaginable. Every few minutes new breathtaking scenes appeared. We saw whales, Bald Eagles (one frustrated in his attempts to dive out of the sky and grab a little duck, who dove into the water successfully on each pass), Sea Lions, Mountain Goats and all kinds of other wildlife.
Many glaciers descend from the Harding ice field above, but this one must surely be the most beautiful. The awesome scenery in all directions adds to the experience. We have been in many countries, but have never seen an area more beautiful, wild and even breathtaking. As we were motoring back to Seward our boat unexpectedly slowed, the Captain explaining that two other boats ahead had spotted whales in the area. We had been taking photos with our digital camera, but we got out the Minolta 6006 because of its superior lens and aimed it at the area. In a wonderful stroke of luck, a Humpback Whale and her juvenile baby breached, twice. July 6, 2000 in Homer, Alaska July 13, 2000 at Mt. McKinley, Alaska Several aviation companies are licensed for landings within the park, to drop off and pick up climbers and their gear at the base camp. These bush planes also are for hire for sightseeing and glacier landings around Denali. After doing our research, we chose Talkeetna Air Taxi (www.talkeetnaair.com) since their pilots seemed the most pleasant and helpful. Our pilot, Tony, flew us around the cliffs, glaciers and mountain peaks in a 300 hp Cessna 185 equipped with skids for glacier landing. Don has flown Cessnas for years, but he admits that this flight "totally surpassed" his humble "lower 48" piloting skills. CLICK HERE to view additional enlargeable Alaska photos We've seen marvelous mountain ranges around the world, but no mountain flight anywhere on earth could have produced more breathtaking scenes. Denali tops at 20,300 feet, the highest point in North America. The glaciers, sheer rock walls thousands of feet high and spectacular summits are magnificent. It was as if we were on a magic carpet ride. The views obtained here were almost beyond description. Clouds shrouded all but occasional glimpses of the summit, but did not detract from our ability to slip over jagged peaks, above icy mountain valleys and past huge walls of ice posed to rumble down the mountain. We soared above the tiny specks which were the tents at the base camp used by climbers on their way to the peaks of Mounts Hunter, Foraker, and McKinley. And just as the mind was beginning to absorb the fact that we really are soaring past some of nature's most awesome magic at 11,000 feet, we set up for an uphill landing on a glacier. It was the Ruth Glacier, a vast river of ancient ice 3,000 feet thick.
We both grew up in the "mountain west," but nothing prepared us for the majesty of this day. The reality of being there, of the vast distances and heights, of being but a speck on a field of ice thousands of feet thick, was truly humbling. The motor of our little plane roared as we skidded down the glacier to again become airborne and follow the blue ice many miles to its terminus. Turquoise pools of water stood on the ice and small lakes gouged along the flow's edge framed the scene magically as we glided down to the marshy land below and back to a life we're more familiar with, a life that is now deepened by two precious hours in a place so spectacular that one can best absorb it while soaring with the eagles. Now we begin the long drive back to the Lower 48 to visit friends and relatives before flying to Portugal for seven weeks. We'll return in mid-October for two weeks and then take the 8,200 mile flight to Thailand for a six month adventure in SE Asia. Still, no matter what we see and do, images of Denali, The Great One, will continue to flash in mind and soul. As a note to those of you who could travel extensively, but find reasons not to, isn't it time for a fresh jolt of inspiration? On to Portugal! PREVIOUS LOG or |
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e safety of a four-wheel-drive. 
The Dempster is a gravel road leading from a point 25 miles east of Dawson City on the main highway to Inuvik, a small town far above the Arctic Circle. At the 225 milepost is the only settlement -- a small hotel and gas station -- before a monument at the Arctic Circle, at MP 252. This is the only public highway to cross the Arctic Circle in North America. Near the circle, the road is used as an emergency airstrip serving the surrounding bush.
A highlight was reaching the Arctic Circle, which stands, according to our GPS, not on the actual line but at a point 3,000 feet north. There, each June 21, the sun does not set. Further north at Inuvik, the sun does not set for 58 days. In the winter it does rise for a similar period. The average daily high temperature then is -11 and the lows are in the mid -30s.
We were all dumfounded. If ten thousand people had come down the road that day and we had asked ALL of them if we had friends in common, the odds would have been highly against it.
Three races are run (junior, women, men) on July 4, comprised of 300 serious climbers and runners (200 competitors in the junior race, who run only about half way up the mountain). They are mostly from Alaska with a few serious mountain runners from around the U.S. The route includes sheer rock climbing, groping through trees and thorny alder bushes on steep slopes, and scampering up rock outcroppings and hugs sheets of loose shale. In the past there have been many serious injuries, but the runners this year escaped without major injuries.
The highlight, by far, was the awesome Aialik Glacier, the face of which is 500 feet high and over a mile wide. As we sat silently on the catamaran a short distance away, the thunder of huge stresses cracking ice deep inside the glacier could be heard, and occasionally large pieces "calved" -- broke away from the glacier, falling into the ocean water. The blue color of the ice was stunning in the bright sunlight, and creates a haunting blue color seas, as well.
The two of us together, standing there (N62 degrees 58.023 minutes; W150 degrees 44.897 minutes) on that huge snow-covered glacier, beside that tiny plane, will always be considered one of life's most prized moments for both of us. This wonderful experience was so much more meaningful because we could do it together, and we marveled at our commitment to each other and the unique lifestyle we've chosen. It was a prized moment not only of our expedition, but of the life we share.