This Log is Current to August 3, 2004

June 21, 2004 at anchor near Galesville, MD
Having survived a horrific thunderstorm in Solomons, MD, we sailed north to begin this log with idyllic summer sailing on the Chesapeake. Our oceangoing sailboat (and home) Pioneer looked great among other Cabo Riches gathered for a rally. Photo: we took advantage of a fresh breeze on the bay. This is what all the work and expense earns, glorious days at sail.

One of the boats was brand new -- a 42-foot Cabo Rico 42 -- and it too looked great on the water. These high quality boats are made in Costa Rica in Central America and rigged and delivered in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Very few sailboats anywhere in the world are made to higher standards, and we are proud to own, live aboard, and sail one. Our longest single trip leg so far was from Nassau, The Bahamas, to Beaufort, North Carolina. In late April 2003, the 110 hour sail was 767 nautical miles (882 statute) nonstop, most of it in the Gulf Stream.

On the other hand, we came across one tiny vessel quite obviously at the opposite end of the quality scale, one of the most curious boats almost afloat. It was evicted from Annapolis and is now anchored near the public dock in Galesville, MD. On its deck is a bizarre but impressively varied collection of “items”. The inside, media reports claim, is home to a former DC attorney. We never saw him or came to know what series of events brought him to this end.

June 28, 2004 in Solomons, MD
This boat produces 2,500 horsepower and its roar is like that of a dragster. On flat water it can reach 150 mph. It was one of several dozen boats in Solomons on a “Poker Run,” for charity. The new cost of some of these boats is well over $2 million!

The cost of the fuel each these testaments to excess consumes every few minutes could rescue one of the scores of homeless children living on the streets of Kathmandu, Nepal -- and feed, house and educate that orphan for a month.

We have just received an update about the tragic situation in Burma, where the Burmese Army is systematically killing minority people -- especially those who refuse to manufacture illegal narcotics and turn the profits over to the Army.

Brilliant!
The other day the driver of a new red Corvette pulled up in front of a bar in Solomons. Demonstrating his car’s awesome acceleration, it took just over three seconds for the witless driver to stomp the gas, travel 280 feet, lose control shifting to second gear, crash into a pickup and flip upside down -- throwing the passenger from the car in the process. We used to have a car exactly like this one, but it lasted a lot longer.

July 1, 2004
Let’s say, just for the fun of it, that the Expedition were to consider a major sailing adventure of 8 to 18 months, departing from the Chesapeake this fall and heading for the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, the Turks and Caicos, the Dominican Republic, Panama’s San Blas and Bocas del Toro islands, Costa Rica (where we were engaged nearly 10 years ago), Honduras, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Belize, Mexico and back to Florida and on to the Chesapeake. The total distance would be in excess of 6,200 nautical miles. Something to think about. Something to think about. Recommendations, anyone?

July 10, 2004 sailing the Chesapeake
Terrific trip so far: Solomons to anchor in Herring Bay, to anchor in the Rhode River, to cross the Chesapeake to anchor in the Wye River, and down to anchor at the gem of the Chesapeake, St. Michaels, MD.

The good stuff: sailing in perfect weather. The downside: adverse winds and thunderstorms.  In Herring Bay we nearly dumped our guests into the bay in the middle of the night as they were trying to board our wildly pitching dinghy for the trip back to shore.

At the Rhode River, normally an idillic and safe anchorage, we were hit by thunderstorm winds peaking at 80 mph, and by a powerboat whose anchor was dragging. We have experienced conditions like this before, but many others were terrified as their boats suddenly headed downwind out of control. Wish we could have taken photos during the chaos -- but on the other hand we could only see a few feet beyond the bow. Thank goodness for the GPS chartplotter.

Another exciting moment came on July 4 when we heard on the VHF radio that the fireworks barge at Galesville was adrift -- and heading for the fuel dock! An unexpectedly large fireworks display was averted.

Out in the Chesapeake, we’ve learned to watch for huge ships that move at alarming speeds (comparatively!). If you are sailing along and spot a huge ship on the horizon, keep an eye on it. If it’s coming toward you, it’ll get big very quickly.

We were passed by one freighter named Pacific Spirit which, we were surprised to learn, was registered in Valetta, Malta -- in the Mediterranean.

St. Michaels, Maryland is a terrific destination. It offers cruisers a free dinghy dock, library with Internet access, public restrooms, convenient grocery store, easy-access fuel docks, great seafood restaurants, and a beautiful place to “drop the hook.”

This sunset shot shows part of the anchorage.  It can be rough in a North wind, but most of the time it is terrific, except for the fishing boats that tend to charge through the anchorage beginning at 3:45 a.m.

This is the perfect destination for former Capitol Hill staff in search of weekend sanity (we know!). They hop in their boats Friday nights and head for St. Michaels at first light in the morning. The only downside is that people some people (not us, of course) would call big stupid mouth-breathing, muscle-headed morons with huge powerboats and rocks for brains don’t hesitate to roar dangerously close to sailboats at ten times their speed, creating monstrous wakes and momentary chaos.

July 13, 2004 finally back in Solomons
With no wind, we motored to Annapolis and tied onto a government mooring in protected Weems Creek for two nights, waiting out a nasty storm. Then it was south toward “home” in Solomons, MD. We’ll spend a few days getting ready for the “screwpile,” (got your attention?) this weekend, and more sailing before heading west in the Gypsy Wagon for some terrific events while the Chesapeake bakes in the summer sun.

July 16, 2004 in a storm
We must have angered the Gods. Another very nasty afternoon thunderstorm hit us, this time while at our dock. This photo doesn’t really show the hail being driven by 85 mph wind gusts, or the tornado that touched down uncomfortably close. These winds were about the same as felt here in last year’s hurricane.

Pioneer was not damaged, but the bimini on the huge powerboat beside us was ripped loose and some boats in the anchorage were involuntarily repositioned.

July 19, 2004 Screwpile
For those who have been asking “What on earth is a Screwpile?” here is a hint: When the first event was over the participants gathered under a tent at a Solomons, MD marina and before long the Calvert County Sheriff delivered the Blues Brothers in handcuffs. It was a great time.

Another hint: once you get a screwpile organized, torrential rain doesn’t dampen your enthusiasm. “Screwpile,” no matter what you thought, is an annual sailboat race on the Chesapeake. It is named after a type of lighthouse. 

Check out our new Maryland Photo Gallery.

July 23, 2004 on the Chesapeake
The Expedition is at a crossroads; unable to decide where to go next. We’ll spend August on a 6,500 mile trip to the western USA visiting friends and relatives, and waiting for a “sign” telling us whether to sail south for the winter, or drive to Central America, or return to Asia to continue our journey up the Mekong into China and on to Tibet, or something else. All suggestion welcome!

This 254 page site containing 64 photo galleries, 1,200 photos and all kinds of other stuff details only our travels for less than the last five years. Here is a list of all the countries we’ve ever visited.

July 26, 2004 in the Chesapeake rain
The rainy weather is putting a damper on our sailing. Meanwhile, we’re preparing for a 6,500 drive through a dozen midwest and western states while the Chesapeake weather is hot and steamy. We have some great stuff lined up out west. This photo is a sample of how excited Becky gets in her home state, even in the “Badlands.”

July 29, 2004 in Solomons
It finally quit raining, so we went for a last sail before we head west. First event: a major gathering of friends at a hunting lodge in, of all places, Gregory, South Dakota. Hold your laughter. There is more to this than you might guess.

After Gregory, it’s the biker’s rally in Sturgis, SD. Here is a shot of how easy it is for Becky to make friends once a half million bikers invade her home area.

Then we’ll be off to Jackson, Wyoming, Livingston and Sidney, Montana, then Emily Minnesota. After that, we’ll either sail to the Caribbean or head to Central America, or back to Asia. Or something else.

PREVIOUS LOG

NEXT LOG