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This log is current to May 28, 2005 April 30, 2005 in Fernandina, Florida We’d rather be sailing in the ocean, but the weather windows have been few and short. Florida does not lack for bridges of all kinds. A sailboat traveling the Intracoastal Waterway is often on the radio with bridge tenders, requesting openings. The current under some bridges is surprisingly strong and vigilance is required. The Bridge of Lyons in Saint Augustine is particularly scenic and historic; the town being the oldest operating city in the United States. We have learned that a bridge north of us in Georgia has been damaged by a truck. During the month-long repair, all ICW traffic must either wait or bypass the problem by going out into the Atlantic -- which, of course, is our preference. May 1, 2005: Happy May Day. May 5, 2005 in Charleston, South Carolina It was a tiny bird, not a sea bird, so we didn’t’ know why he was visiting, but he seemed tired. We fed him two grapes and he admired himself in the lens of our binoculars, for a while, and finally flew away. We had other boarders: from the Coast Guard. We were heading out Sapelo Sound into the Atlantic, when a Coast Guard boat came rushing up. Two “Coasties” invited themselves aboard for a surprise inspection of Pioneer and her equipment. Many people dread having the Coast Guard pay a visit, but this was rather fun. As we sailed along the two men who came aboard checked our paperwork, our extensive safety gear and the general condition of Pioneer, and pronounced us in great shape for an ocean voyage. We were so impressed by the young men who boarded that we took a photo of them with Becky (showing our “boarding certificate.”) Strangely, we nearly ran around with them aboard! We were two miles offshore, in water charted at 22 feet, when we “bumped bottom” -- to everyone’s surprise. While motoring past Beaufort, SC, we spotted the “Big Chill House,” of movie fame. If you’re not familiar with the movie it won’t mean much, but believe us, it’s a period classic. We’ve mentioned it before, but you find every kind of vessel on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). Huge yachts, barges, private boats of all kinds, and fishing vessels like this shrimp boat can be found plying the ICW. We talk a lot about how we don’t like grinding our way up the ICW, but that’s only because Pioneer is a sailboat and our goal is to sail in the open ocean. However, the weather recently has been, well, crappy, and without the ICW it would not be possible for us to make progress. Still, it surprises us how many people buy expensive sailboats, motoring them up and down the east coast of the USA with no intention of ever sailing them in the ocean. May 6, 2005 in Charleston, SC May 11, 2005 finally in Oriental, North Carolina Of course, the great percentage of those days, including the ICW trek from Florida, were filled with special places, people and adventures. We continue to come across dramatic All along the ICW from southern Florida to North Carolina we found destroyed boats and docks, and even sections where most of the branches have been blown off trees. It’s eery. We’ve also been reminded of the uniqueness of the Intra Coastal Waterway. It’s possible to travel safely (if you don’t count the But where else can you find a waterway where sailboats can call a bridge tender and have all the highway traffic stopped so a huge bridge can be raised, allowing us to pass. Kinda makes us not resist paying federal taxes! We’ve also found some very interesting people along the water. A bridge tender at the nation’s only remaining pontoon bridge in extreme southern North Carolina closed his bridge just before we got there because the water was too low to operate. It appeared we’d be stuck for hours, totally messing up our schedule further north. We dropped our anchor right in front of the bridge, and when Becky went out to start working on Pioneer the bridge tender -- a great guy named Al -- called on the radio and said he’d give it one more try. He waved us It won’t be long before this is just a memory, a special part of American history. We are fortunate to experience it before it’s gone. We have also discovered special places to spent the night while sailing or motoring along America’s east coast. The ICW is loaded with challenges, but there are spots that have to be experienced to truly understand some of the most special places in our country. One such place is on the Bull River in South Carolina, north of Charleston. There, one can pull off the ICW route into the deep water of a place that seems like wilderness. It is an experience that is only accessible via boat. It’s impossible to fully describe it, but imagine the call of birds, the musty smell of moss hanging from large trees, the wisp of deep water slowly easing past your anchored vessel. Are we getting melancholy now that our sailing days are almost over? Yes. We’ll get off the topic of the ICW -- but first, here is a look of machinery that makes it all possible. We were motoring up the ICW in South Carolina when a tug came from the opposite direction. The equipment it was pulling constituted the bizarre collection of equipment needed to dredge the ICW. It’s a constant battle, keeping the channels deep enough for sailboats like Pioneer. The equipment dragged past us was more than 1,500 feet in length, and is one of many systems constantly working the ICW. But we are now in Oriental, preparing to show Pioneer -- the vessel that has given us so many challenges and rewards -- for sale. Soon we will travel to Montana, where family responsibilities await in the near term. While there, we will ponder our next big adventure. Will it involve writing a book? Will it include exploring South America, or continuing our trip up the Mekong into China? We are among the most fortunate people in the world to be able to say that anything is possible. Find new photos in our North Carolina and South Carolina photo galleries. May 18, 2005 in Oriental, NC We have received a number of very nice e-mails from followers of this site, to whom we have not had time to respond. But we will -- promise! May 23, 2005 in Oriental May 25, 2005 in Oriental They had Pioneer checked out professionally and quickly made an offer, which we just as quickly accepted. While we are melancholy about closing out the sailing portion of our ongoing adventures, it is time to resume other explorations in the USA and overseas. In coming days we’ll wheel the Gypsy Wagon to Livingston, Montana, where doctors will deal with Don’s serious back problem. After that -- the world awaits! We were not without emotion when we walked away from Pioneer the last time. We hope she serves her new owners with the same loyalty and class we enjoyed. They say the happiest days of a sailor’s life are the buying and selling of a special vessel. In our case, we also felt overwhelming satisfaction over having mastered the many skills necessary to be safe at sea and to enjoy this unique lifestyle. Over the Memorial Holiday weekend we will drive the Gypsy Wagon 2,305 miles to Livingston, Montana and regroup. WHEW! |
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examples of the damage from last season’s many hurricanes. If there is something we have come to appreciate while sailing, it’s the power of Mother Nature.
possibility of running around in very shallow water!) up and down America’s east coast. We prefer to sail on the “outside” in the Atlantic Ocean. But the weather has frequently horrible -- witness the huge cruise ship that was seriously damaged by waves while we waited out the storms in the Bahamas.
through with a smile. 
