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This log is current to May 23, 2004 April 8, 2004 in Yuma Arizona Since that time we have traveled 195,000 miles on three continents and among numerous remote islands in (or on) 33 modes of transportation, averaging 123.4 miles per day. Not only are we still married, we’re more enthusiastic than ever about our continuing adventure, and especially about each other! We are among the luckiest people on earth! Thanks to all of you who follow our adventures and ask advice about your own travels. For those who are wondering why we returned to the USA from Asia before our scheduled April 15 flight, it’s because of grave medical challenges facing both of Don’s parents. We flew from Bangkok to the USA on an emergency basis. In a few days we will be transporting Don’s parents to Montana, where they can receive continuing professional care. Information concerning another grave situation is relayed to us almost daily from Nepal. We continue to be amazed that the news media focuses so intently on the Mideast, but seems totally uninterested in Nepal, where thousands of innocent people are dying. More than 500 perished in a recent battle between the Nepalese Army and Maoist rebels. We are concerned for our many friends in Kathmandu and Pokhara. Other tragic news comes from our friends who conduct covert nighttime overland missions into Burma, giving medical assistance to victims of the Burmese Army’s continued assault on minorities in that country.
After more than 13 years, the Army thugs in Burma have yet to let the legally elected president of the country take power. More than two MILLION innocent people have been displaced from their traditional homes in Burma. It is a tragedy of epic scale -- and yet little is said about it internationally, and even less is done for these innocent victims. It sounds terrible to say, but it is true that if a single American or Israeli had died here, there would be an international uproar. Our schedule has us in Montana right after Easter, then back in the Chesapeake Bay aboard our sailboat/home Pioneer, where we’ll begin new adventures at sea.
April 17, 2004 in Livingston, Montana. The expedition is making progress. April 20, 2004 in Belle Fourche, SD April 25, 2004 in Sioux Falls, SD April 28, 2004...we’re back aboard PIONEER tonight....and what a lot of work to do getting her ready to re-launch in a few days. May 5, 2004 in Solomons, MD. We’re back in the water. New sailing photos soon. May 8, 2004 in Solomons Even though Pioneer is a rest rather than sailing, which she likes best, this may be the finest photo ever taken of her. There is something about waking up at anchor, looking out, and seeing things in an all new way. It’s kind of like when we travel in Asia’s nooks and crannies: if you look carefully, and without bias, everything can be new. This perhaps is the greatest joy of living as we do, constantly in search of one the world’s special gifts: growing perspective. Our travels have now taken us more than 200,000 miles. We have no plans to stop. While we slowly become poorer, we become richer. CLICK HERE for Expedition Statistics. May 21, 2003 in Solomons, Maryland, USA Meanwhile, we’ve been pained by news from Kathmandu, where we spent so much time and have so many friends. The situation is even worse. Here is an example from NepalNews.com today: “Maoists abduct 1000 villagers in Kailali Since we departed Nepal, thousands of people have died at the hands of the Maoists, the Army, in bombings and in street protests against the King, who disbanded Parliament and turns a deaf ear to requests for free national elections. Almost to a person, Nepalis believe this King was responsible for the deaths of the former King and his entire immediate family almost three years ago. Many of our friends in Nepal are starving, having no income due to the reduction of foreign trekkers, who are afraid of the Maoists. Meanwhile, the Kwai River Hospital (LINK) on the Thai-Burma border, where we once lived as volunteers, is being kept busy with victims of the Burmese Army’s genocide against their own country’s minorities (except those who make illegal drugs and cut the Army in on the profits). Please read our reports from Americans who risk their lives in secret humanitarian missions into the Burmese jungles to help these poor victims. We’re sometimes tempted to give up this website because of the time it takes to maintain it. But ever so often we’re reminded that a lot of people do follow our unusual lifestyle. Recently, a man named Jared contacted us with this interesting observation: “One of the odd asides of the internet has been the completely one sided relationships it has produced. If we were to meet on the street, I would recognize both of you instantly, could converse about your latest adventures like I knew you, inquire about your parents health and well-being since moving to an extended care facility and so on, yet you would have no idea who I am. It really is quite odd.” Yes it is, Jared, and your comments are encouraging. We try to hard to bring people’s attention to places in the world that deserve our focus and understanding -- even while the media remains obsessed on Israel, Iraq and Afghanistan as if suffering elsewhere were of less importance. It’s good to know that in some small way we widen the lens through which life is viewed. Americans in particular need that. If you disagree, go anywhere else in the world. Read the local newspapers, talk with the people. We have traveled in more than 70 countries and principalities now, and one thing we know for sure: We have been empowered and moved by people we would never have known existed, had we not made the effort to find them. We set out nearly five years ago in search of the world’s nooks and crannies. We will continue doing that until health or resources run out, because we continue to believe you can’t sit in your armchair reading the New York Times and pontificating about world events, without ever bothering to go places and see for yourself. You’ll think you understand, but you won’t. In a few days we’ll be sailing again, and will start a new log. Our site statistics indicate that more of you are following this site all the time. Our thanks to those of you who contact us to say it makes a difference. FYI, we have created some terrific “animated” slide shows complete with traditional music, but are having trouble getting them online because each show is larger than this entire 249 page, 85mb site. But we’re working on it. May 22, 2004 on the Chesapeake |
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And more than four years ago (1,580 days to be exact) we began our Expedition. 
This photo was taken by the Free Burma Rangers during a secret aid mission. Her name was Nu Nu Yee, a 24 year old Arakan villager who was tortured by the Burmese Army. She died shortly after this picture was taken. Her husband was killed by the Army in 2002, after being taken from his home and being forced to serve as a porter.
April 12, 2004 heading north
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For example, this Nepali lady is a Leper. She lives with a dozen other Lepers in a commune near Pokhara. They are all outcasts, shunned even by their own families. And yet when you take the time to come to know her, your perceptions change. You begin to see her sense of self, the character and strength it takes to survive as a Leper in abject poverty. And yet unlike so many people in the “gimme” societies of more advanced countries, all this woman wants is a little human kindness-- for which she will be eternally grateful. Look carefully at the strength and character in her face. There are some things in this life that, once experienced, forever change you for the better. But you have to go find them. They seldom come to you.