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February 3 to February 19, 2007
Internet shops, restaurants, tour companies and about everything a visitor might need can be found in this several block area. We were blessed by the weather. The last tim One of the changes involves the cost of lodging. We paid $40/night this time. Last time we paid $8. (Admittedly, we had much better accommodations this time). Why do people come here? For many reasons, especially the temples containing impressive works of art, such as this gold Buddha. Many temples are free. Some charge a small fee. All are dramatic. Visitors are invited to enter (shoes off, please), providing they behave respectfully. The monks are only too pleased to explain the temples and historic items in them, and allow photos to be taken. We found that by using a tripod and using natural light (although in some temples there wasn’t much) the photos looked much better than when using a flash. Not all Buddha statues are gold. We found one made of jade, with gold trim, and were allowed to take pictures. It is about three feet high and stands to the left of a larger gold Buddha. Notice the light shining through its left leg. In temples throughout the city, beautiful works of art inspire and amaze. Although many were lost over the years in internal conflicts and battles with neighboring countries, these items remain from the day when Luang Prabang was the capitol. While we were taking a Mekong River trip upstream, our boat was pulled over by authorities who warned that a 500 pound bomb had been discovered on the banks, just a few hundred meters ahead. They planned to detonate it, and about 30 minutes later, did. It was a huge explosion, the thunder of which echoed up and down the banks of the river. We learned that the bomb had been there since the Vietnam war, and was the type dropped by the hundreds from American B-52 bombers. Of note is the fact that the American president and his administration told the American people, even while these bombs were being dropped, that no such thing was happening. Today, some forty years after the bombings that never occurred, innocent people in this gentle country are killed when encountering unexploded ordinances that rained from the sky a generation ago and failed to explode on impact. As Americans, we felt guilt that these people yet pay the price for a secret war outside their participation or control. Still, This boat is typical of those used to haul produce and people up and down the river to remote villages. They are also used to transport tourists, both locally and on two day trips upriver. In the dry season the water is too low to go down river from here. Three years ago we took one of these boats -- a luxury This time we took a day trip, chartering a boat and driver so we could stop where we wanted. We found one remote village fascinating. This house was the nicest in town. It is impressive, considering that the people who live here cut the wood by hand from trees felled in the jungle. The houses are all on stilts, which helps with cooling in the hot season, and possible reduces the number of creatures that might like to enter. These people are are extremely poor. They used to support a handful of monks at a temple in their village. When they found themselves unable to provide the necessary food, the monks moved to Luang Prabang, where there is more support. These village children seldom see outsiders, but nonetheless seemed curious about the tall Two of these children were so enchanted that they followed us back to our boat. When we blew them kisses, they stood on the bank blowing them back -- until we were out of sight. In another village we found a paper maker. Another girl was making thread and yarn. Tourism has greatly helped the economy of this village, and of many others, since the domestic market for these items is limited. While some of them are sold in the village to visitors Many of these items are very impressive, resulting a Becky’s purchase of several. This is new for us. In our previous travels we had no permanent home. Now that we do, it’s time to adorn our headquarters. Every morning in this town, several hundred monks and novice monks get up before dawn and prepare to ply the street The monks tell us they love their lifestyle, especially the time to read and study. They learn more than Buddhist lessons, they delve into foreign languages, history and other academic topics. Many of them regret that they will eventually have to return to the working life and leave behind these spe About ten miles south of Luang Prabang a waterfall gives way to a series of natural swimming pools. Locals and visitors alike swarm here on hot days. It is a very special place, a sanctuary in the middle of a frenzied environment. We hired a driver to take us to the falls, and found them beautiful. These moments of pure joy come often in our chosen lifestyle. To the many people who say they envy a life of exploration but never get around to it, Don’t wait. We have long preached the importance of not just being alive, but of actually living every minutes, every day. There are many inspirational nooks and crannies to be discovered. For more photos of Laos, see our Laos 2007 gallery where you’ll find larger pictures in higher resolution. temp end |
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We were last in Laos three years ago. Much has changed. Our favorite city, Luang Prabang in northern Laos seems more prosperous, although it might be hard to tell from this photo of the main street in the tourist area.
e we were here, in January, it was blistering hot. This time it couldn’t have been more perfect.
everyday life goes on here. The Mekong is the nation’s lifeline. In fact, a greater stretch of this great river, which begins in Tibet, touches Laos than any other country.
version, by the luck of the draw -- up river, overnighting at a small riverbank town. The boats can’t navigate in the dark, so we spent the night in a simple, one-dollar room. Now, we hear, the rooms go for for ten dollars.
white people who wandered up. They were sitting on what had been a large tree. Their job was to hold down one end while older men, using a crosscut saw, laboriously cut planks for use in local construction. 
This lady was making paper from banana leaves and the bark of other trees. We purchased more than a dozen sheets, intending to use it at Expedition headquarters as backing for photos from around the world.
who know how to find it, more is sold in Luang Prabang. There, every evening, a street is blocked off and a large night market is set up. People from villages, some a considerable distance away, come there each night to market their wares.
s in search of food alms. Locals and tourists get up early to see the lines of monks in the early morning light. Many people offer bits of rice or other foods, and a few offer small amounts of money.
cial days.
we ask whey they’re waiting. Often they say they will, “some day.” Brothers and sisters, remember that life can be fleeting. You never know when it will end, or when something else might happen to preclude your doing it later.