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This log runs through January 2, 2003
September 14, 2002 at anchor in Willoughby Bay, Norfolk, VA We made it to ICW Mile Zero and beyond -- 900 miles from Stuart, Florida, where we began this leg of our expedition. Our arrival in VA saw more dangerously shallow water, then our first locks, and lift bridges and bascule bridges, then navy ships and huge freighters passing too close for comfort. When the weather clears in a couple of days we'll sail up the Chesapeake to visit friends we left after a wild going-away party more than 1,000 days ago.
September 18, 2002 at anchor in Deltaville, Virginia Pioneer's design is proving its worth. But a few hours earlier we were slicing through tall Chesapeake waves as if they were butter. Every day we appreciate new things about this vessel's design.
CLICK HERE for enlargeable photos of Pioneer’s extensive refit.
September 19, 2002 at anchor in Herring Bay, Deale, Maryland Passing beautiful lighthouses along the way, we finally made it back to Herrington Harbor, where we sailed years ago. Ah, progress!
CLICK HERE for enlargeable photos of Maryland.
September 24, 2002 at anchor on the Rhode River near Galesville, MD After four beautiful days on the hook we'll rent a car today and drive to Oriental, NC to pick up the Gypsy Wagon. Our renaming party is all set: Herrington Harbor South, Saturday the 28th at 3 PM
September 28, 2002 our Renaming Ceremony on the Chesapeake So there we were on the dock at Herrington Harbor Marina with a few friends when Neptune God of the Sea suddenly appeared. And with him was Aeolus of the wind. Imagine our shock!
Neptune eyed our vessel with deep suspicion, demanding to know its name. Realizing that although PIONEER would not be on Neptune's register without an Official Renaming Ceremony, Becky immediately bowed to the powerful Neptune and asked him, as he was hanging around anyway, to perform the ceremony.
Neptune asked if we possessed the required elements: official records, incense, wine, champagne, salt, home port water -- and most difficult of all, a sacrificial virgin. Although those can be hard to find, a virgin happened to be nearby. Her parents were relieved when the powerful Neptune, being in exceptionally good cheer, did not require her sacrifice.
In the ceremony that followed, we found ourselves presenting documentation and burning incense and sprinkling home port water and salt and wine all over the boat. Becky's mother, filling in for Queen Elizabeth who was unavailable, attempted to break a bottle of champagne on the bow. When after three mighty whacks it refused to break, we popped the cork and she poured what little that didn't explode onto the audience.
In the end Don was dubbed Captain of Pioneer -- and Becky ADMIRAL. The ceremony was sealed with a kiss.
Our most heartfelt thanks to the special friends who came to our ceremony. You are welcome to sail with us anywhere, anytime. Special thanks to Neptune and Aeolus, our dear and thoughtful friends Rich and Jane of the sailing vessel Cabochon.
September 29, 2002 in Rosehaven, Maryland PIONEER is now officially renamed and blessed by Neptune. It is the only federally documented sailboat registered in Belle Fourche, South Dakota, which is located at the center of the nation. We are grateful that Becky's parents -- Leroy and Harlene Hill -- drove here from Belle Fourche. We took pictures of them on the stern and then them and Becky's brother Bradley sailing. Becky and her dad had a great time -- and Becky and her mom looked ready to sail to Portugal!
October 3, 2002 sailing to an Annapolis anchorage Next weekend: the Cabo Rico rally near Annapolis. The following weekend: the Annapolis boat show. Following that: preparation for departure to tropical islands. Finally! And wherever we go Neptune will protect us -- and having had a virgin on the bow can't hurt, either.
October 7, 2002 moored in Clements Creek near Annapolis The Cabo Rico sailboat rally was great fun, the boat owners being as interesting as the boats. Eleven boats were present.
October 14, 2002 on Saltworks Creek near Annapolis The Annapolis boat show further drained our thin financial resources, but we now own a satellite alarm (GPS-EPIRB) which, if we encounter calamity at sea, will instantly notify authorities of our precise location.
We're replacing ropes, installing a chart plotter and making minor repairs in preparation for heading to the Bahamas ASAP.
October 20, 2002 in Saltworks creek While the Annapolis anchorage was crowded and occasionally rough, it's a different world nearby in beautiful and protected Saltworks Creek. We're making numerous trips to town for boat supplies.
Readers know that we were on a remote Indonesian Island on 9/11. There, we met a delightful woman named Rahel (Becky and Rahel). She recently moved to Bali -- just in time for the terrorist bombing there. Fortunately, she's okay.
October 24, 2002 heading south We're on our way south. Good thing: it's SO cold in the Chesapeake now.
Yesterday Don single-handed Pioneer from above Annapolis to Herring Bay on the west side of the mid-Chesapeake -- and made record speed. Even while pulling our dinghy Scout, and running against the tide, Don saw 8.3 kts on the chart plotter, and a max speed of 8.6!
The lure of the Bahamas (and beyond -- we have charts all the way to South America and Panama) grows larger.
October 29, 2002 in Hampton, Virginia A great thing about sailing is being able to enjoy the scenery at Solomon's Island, Maryland and drop anchor in front of someone's beautiful house. While there, we were visited by friends Marlo and Paul (photo from previous logs), and Don had a great time with their children Austin and Arie.
In cold, rainy, windy weather we sailed down the Chesapeake (hitting a max motor-sailing speed of 9.3 kts!) and into an anchorage at Hampton where we're awaiting a weather break to carry on more pleasantly.
CLICK HERE for enlargeable photos of Virginia.
October 30, 2002 still in Hampton, Virginia We're sitting at anchor in 25 KT winds, unending rain and raw temps. The assertion that southern Virginia has mild weather through October is a crock -- just like that southern California Beach Blanket Bingo fantasy!
November 1, 2002 Halloween Day Last night as darkness fell on the ICW's Dismal Swamp Route south of Norfolk, we discovered the perfect place for Halloween -- and a free dock to spend the night nearby. As if on cue, there in the shadowy autumn evening was a centuries-old cemetery with markers dating back to the early 1800's.
The next morning Pioneer sat quietly at Elizabeth's Dock, poised to enter the canal when the low bridge ahead opened. We are traveling down the Great Dismal Swamp, canal which was surveyed and timbered by George Washington, built by slaves, and was a former hideout to bands of runaway slaves. The locks were captured and destroyed in the Civil War. The name of the swamp is misleading, as George Washington called it a "glorious paradise." We are having peaceful trip -- while the optional route along shallow Currituck south is foaming with high winds and seas.
Pioneer spent the night at the only place in the nation where sailors and motorists on a public highway share a visitors' center.
November 3, 2002 in Elizabeth City, North Carolina We have found America's most sailor-friendly town, Elizabeth City. As the sun set we settled into a free dock, where we and other sailors were visited by Fred Fearing. By sponsoring welcoming receptions and passing out roses (when out of season, bowls of cotton), this delightful gentleman (great photo with Becky) has been welcoming the boating community for nearly twenty years.
November 8, 2002 in Oriental, North Carolina After several days holed up in a creek at anchor while a nasty storm passed, we're in Oriental where we resolved an electrical problem and had Deaton Yacht Service adjust the valves on our new engine.
November 11, 2002 -- STILL in Oriental Valve adjustment done, we left Deatons only to return hours later with engine room damage from a broken alternator belt. Hopefully we'll be on our way south again soon, and will post photos of our first ventures into the open Atlantic. Our singular goal is sailing to warmer weather ASAP!
November 13, 2002 -- FINALLY leaving Oriental for good! Becky worked a full day in the engine compartment, routing and protecting wires and fuel hoses -- a guard against the kind of destruction that occurred when a long alternator belt broke.
Our friends Doug and Mary Ann loaned us their car. So with our chores done -- clothes laundered and a huge supply of food and drink and spare parts aboard -- we're heading south. This delay was a good thing: the wind gusted to 43 kts today right in this highly protected marina, and was horrendous out on the open water.
November 17, 2002 near Cape Fear, North Carolina We had a nice night at anchor, oddly enough, near a Marine base along the ICW. Mile Hammock Bay anchorage is one of the few respites for dozens of miles, and it was a lovely evening. We snapped a neat photo of a boat from Canada, and the sun set to create another great scene that sailors experience.
We've been holed up on the Cape Fear River, awaiting the departure of a nasty weather system before heading offshore toward Charleston, SC -- further if possible. Planning departure on the morning tide.
November 22, 2002 in St. Augustine, Florida (Photo: anchorage and old fort at St. Augustine) PIONEER handles like a champ offshore. After we ran down North Carolina's Cape Fear River and into the Atlantic Ocean, we set sail for points south. After an overnight run we tucked into an anchorage on the north tip of Hilton Head Island and headed into the ocean the next morning for another overnight trip.
This was an important first test in rough conditions. While this photo shows only average seas because it wasn't possible to take pictures when the conditions became challenging, the waves grew to about eight feet, higher than Becky's head when she was standing on deck (or trying to).
With strong winds and following seas, we made such good time that we had to stand off the dangerous St. Augustine inlet in the early morning until it was light enough to see the newly relocated channel buoys.
November 27, 2002 in St. Augustine We've met some new sailing friends here and will share Thanksgiving with them before we head for Cocoa Beach. We wish all our American readers a wonderful Thanksgiving holiday, and readers in the fifty nations around the world who frequent this site peace and prosperity.
CLICK HERE for enlargeable photos of Florida.
December 2, 2002 in Cocoa, Florida We had Thanksgiving Dinner with other sailors in St. Augustine (turkeys are hard to come by at sea), before heading further south in search of warmer weather. Lows in the area have been in the high 20's!
Pioneer is now docked at a marina in Cocoa. This shore access is a luxury for us, but in this case a necessity, as we're preparing to fly to California to visit relatives for a week and our sailboat insurance won't cover if we leave Pioneer at anchor. We'll return in time to sail to Miami for Christmas. After that: the Bahamas and points beyond.
As we arrived in Cocoa, 20,000 motorcycles were roaring down the street as part of a holiday Toys for Tots program: great people, but not as "out there" as the bikers we encountered in South Dakota.
December 4, 2002 flying from Cocoa, Fl to Sacramento, CA Off to see relatives. Great fun. We'll miss Pioneer, but she's in good hands with Bob and Ken at Whitley Bay for a week.
December 8, 2002 in Sacramento, California (photo: steamers on the Sacramento River) After weeks on the boat, with only brief moments ashore, we've been among dirt dwellers in California for several days and are having a great time. By mid next week we'll be back in Florida aboard Pioneer continuing preparations.
December 11, 2002 THREE YEARS ON THE ROAD TODAY It's Expedition day 1,096. Three years and 152,216 miles ago we departed Washington, DC, setting off to explore the world. What has been great -- and this is only the beginning.
The last week was especially rewarding. We hopped on a plane in Orlando, Florida and flew across the Rocky Mountains to Sacramento to visit Don's wonderful parents, and his brother and sister in law, Tom and Kathi.
In Sacramento we discovered the terminus of the Pony Express and explored paddle wheel steamers.
Pioneer missed us and is eager to sail us to the southern tip of Florida and then on to the Bahamas.
December 19, 2002 in Cocoa, Florida Becky went up the mast, hanging there fifty feet above the water. Because of her bravery, an American flag now proudly flies from our backstay.
Man, we may have gone overboard buying hundreds of pounds of food and grog. Our challenge is stowing it all. We're ready for sunset dinners in the Bahamas -- with about 500 people!
December 22, 2002 enroute to Melbourne, Florida We're heading to Melbourne, where we'll pick up Becky's Christmas present and a few more spare parts for Pioneer's provisions. Then we're off to Ft. Pierce to pick up mail and still more replacement parts, and top off fuel and water. Then on to Miami. Then off to the Caribbean eventually.
December 28, 2002 in Miami, Florida After Christmas at Faber Cove in Ft. Pierce we motored down to Lake Worth in Palm Beach preparing for a long day's ocean voyage to Miami. Departing at 0400, we made our way out of the crowded anchorage in the pitch black night and shot into the ocean on the outgoing tide -- where less than two miles later our speed was immediately cut in half by the Gulf Stream. We turned closer to shore, out of the stream, and made good progress southbound.
After escaping the Gulf Stream's adverse northbound flow and high waves by hugging shoreline southbound, we made an afternoon arrival at the impressive harbor of Miami. We motored past colorful buildings and big restaurants and gave wide berth to huge freighters and tour boats -- and especially to cruise ships. Miami harbor is nearly as impressive as Norfolk harbor, but with more cruise ships and fewer military vessels.
We're now anchored behind Miami Beach, obtaining paperwork from U.S. Customs, making repairs on our broken oven and awaiting a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas. Today the wave height is 14 feet -- well beyond our comfort zone.
December 29, 2002 in Miami We expect to see Don Johnson of "Miami Vice" zooming by in a 60 MPH cigarette boat any minute. Numerous big power boats have blasted past us with no regard for their wake. Today we heard a radio report from the sister ship of the tour boat mentioned above reporting five injuries after being "waked" by a power boat. Moments later a sailboat motored into our anchorage and dropped anchor in a place where the wind and current had it ramming another boat within minutes. We jumped into our dinghy, Scout and shoved the boats apart. Never a dull moment.
January 2, 2003 in Miami After a New Year's Eve dominated by an all night anchor watch in strong currents, winds gusting to 34 knots and boats dancing around uncomfortably close to each other, we're making final preparations to sail down the Florida Keys toward the Dry Tortugas.
Dry Tortugas: a group of ten coral keys or islets in the Gulf of Mexico west of Key West. Among the principal islets, all of which are low and partially covered with mangrove bushes, are Bush Key, Loggerhead, East Key, and Garden Key. Garden Key islet is the site of Fort Jefferson National Monument.
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