New Expedition

Current to December 24, 2008

October 21, 2008 at Expedition Headquarterschiang-mai-market
We are planning a new three month expedition to portions of SE Asia not visited in our previous five trips there.

Beginning in early December 2008, our temporary headquarters will be in Chiang Mai, Thailand. (Photo: Chiang Mai market). We began preparations back in March 2008.

Our primary focus will be Bangkok, Kanchanaburi (site of the River Kwai bridge, where we lived in 2000), northern Thailand and northern Laos.

We will avoid guesthouses in Muang Ngoi Neua, Laos, about which Footprint guide book says, “Rats are a problem here but, luckily, mosquito nets tend to keep them at bay.”

October 29, 2008 at Headquarters:laos-whole-country-150
We will be gone three months, but right now are focusing on the Northern Laos portion of the upcoming expedition (at the top of this map). The nearest borders will be Burma to the NW, China to the north, and Vietnam to the east.

Please reference the larger map below, to see the route we plan.

After crossing the Mekong River from Chiang Khong, Thailand to Huay Xai, Laos, we’ll take a long, dusty bus ride to Louang Namtha (3). It will be our base for exploration of minority villages in the Muang Sing area. At Phongsali (4) in the extreme north of the country, we’ll arrange for a small boat to take us down the Nam Ou River, to remote villages and caves where people lived during wartime (5&6). laos-map-600After taking a bus or boat down to Louang Prabang, we’ll board a slow boat for the two day ride up the Mekong to the starting point (8).moving-in-day-10-30-2543

After three weeks in northern Laos, we’ll bus back to our Asian headquarters in Chiang Mai.

Before our journey into Laos, we will spend time in Bangkok and Kanchanaburi, site of the famous bridge over the River Kwai. We lived there in 2000-01 (photo).

Late in the upcoming expedition (February, 2009), we will thoroughly explore mountainous NW Thailand, focusing on minority tribal villages.

November 9, 2008 at our Montana headquarters
Planning an expedition is enormously time consuming, but we’re almost ready to depart December 7. Currently, we have resburma-bridgeervations on four different airlines and lodging arrangements in seven places. It is impossible to reserve lodging in the northern Laotian villages we’ll be visiting.

In Chiang Mai, Thailand, we will visit with, and interview, the Free Burma Rangers. We’ll post videos in silhouette, in order to protect the identity of the brave people who lead expeditions through the jungles of Burma to help people attacked by the insanely brutal Burma Army.

Photo: Karen tribal people fleeing their village in advance of the Burma Army.

November 9, 2008 at headquarters in Montalana
Don built and just uploaded a new website. It’s for the “oompah” style band we play in. The band’s name is Alte Kameraden (old friends). The URL is:
www.RedLodgeBand.com.
Please check it out.

November 21, 2008
Plans for our next expedition to Asia are completed. We’ll depart December 7, and be gone three months.

We should also report that after three YEARS of almost constant writing, Don has almost completed his 700 page book on the life of United States Senator Alan K. Simpson, of Wyoming (retired). We are about to find out whether it will be a hit.

Here is a rough outline of our next adventure to Asia. (refer to above map).

December 7, 2008: Montana for San Diego (via air)
December 9, 2008: San Diego to Los Angeles (via rental car)
December 10, 2008: Los Angeles for Singapore (via air, cross international date line)
December 12, 2008: Singapore to Chiang Mai, Thailand (via air)
December 26, 2008: Chiang Mai to Bangkok (via air)
December 27, 2008: Bangkok to Kanchanaburi (via bus -- this is where we used to live, see earlier logs).
January 2, 2009: Kanchanaburi to Sangklaburi (bus) and the Kwai River Mission Hospital
January 4, 2009: Sangklaburi to Kanchanaburi (bus)
January 5, 2009: Kanchanaburi to Bangkok (bia bus)
January 6, 2009: Bangkok to Chiang Mai (via air)
January 11, 2009: Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong, cross Mekong into Laos (via bus and boat)
January 12, 2009: Huay Xai to Luang Namtha, Laos (via bus)
January 14, 2009: Luang Namtha to Muang Sing (via bus)
January 14, 2009 Muang Sing to Luang Namtha (via bus)
January 15-16, 2009: Luang Namtha to Phongsali (via bus)
January 21, 2009: Downriver to Muang Khua (via small boat)
January 23, 2009: Downriver to Ban Ngoi Neui (via small boat)
January 25, 2009: Downriver to Nong Nhwai (via small boat)
January 28, 2009: Downriver to Luang Prabang (via small boat)
January 31, 2009: Luang Prabang, Laos to Chiang Mai, Thailand (via air)
February, 2009: Out of Chiang Mai, exploring hill tribal areas on NW Thailand
March 1, 2009: Chiang Mai to Singapore (via air)
March 2, 2009: Singapore to Los Angeles (via air)
March 3, 2009: Los Angeles to Billings, MT to Red Lodge, Montanakrch-front-5-300

We are excited to visit friends in Kanchanburi (site of the famous Bridge over the River Kwai), and spend New Year’s there. We are likewise eager to visit KRCH, 5 hours further west via bus, where we once lived and volunteered our services at this mission hospital on the Burma border. (Photo: KRCH. The wheel is from an engine on the infamous “death railway” built by the Japanese in World War II with slave labor).

We have twice explored portions of Laos, but not the tiny, remote villages in the extreme north. This is about as mekong-passenger-boat-2-300jpgremote as it gets in SE Asia. Much of our travel will be via small boats that we’ll charter for river travel in areas where there are no roads.

When we were in Laos previously, we traveled the Mekong in much larger boats.

We are also excited to be using all of our remaining airline miles to fly business class on Singapore Airlines. Don did that kind of thing all the time when leading U.S. Senate staff trips to Asia, but now it’s a rarity for us. Don has guaranteed Becky that business class on Singapore is better than first class on any USA based airline.mile-zero

We have found that many people follow our travels via the Internet, even though we created this site initially so our relatives would know where we were. Now, having traveled seventy counties between us, we receive e-mails from people around the world who ask specifics in anticipation of their own travels.

This photo was taken the day we departed the work life and “hit the road,” December 11, 1999. Since then we’ve traveled the equivalent of 13 times around the world (see statibangkokstics).

We’ll spend the period between Christmas and New Years’ Day in Bangkok and Kanchanaburi. Here is the FULL name of Bangkok:

 Krungthepmahanakhon Amornrattanakosin Mahintharayutthaya Mahadilokphop Noppharat Ratchathaniburirom Udomratchaniwetmahasathan Amonphiman Awatansathit Sakkathattiyawitsanukamprasi t. (Internet photo).

In Kanchanaburi, we’ll party down with our friends at the infamous No Name Bar, whose slogan is “Get Shitfaced On A Shoestring.”

November 26, 2008:
We are concerned about the political situation in Bangkok, where anti-government protesters have both airports shut down. We support their cause, and fortunately will be flying into Chiang Mai, in the north, from Singapore (bypassing Bangkok until December 26, when we have reservations to fly there).

Novebecky-and-cop-2mber 30, 2008:
We are still preparing for departure to Thailand, even though the political situation there is worsening. Because we’ll spend time in California first, we won’t actually arrive in Chiang Mai until December 12.

We have an ”in,” in case there is trouble. Becky made friends with this military guard in Kanchanaburi several years ago.

Our flight schedule is Billings, MT -- San Diego, CA -- Los Angeles, CA -- Tokyo, Japan -- Singapore -- Chiang Mai, Thailand. Importantly, this avoids Bangkok. Hopefully the current problems will be resolved before we fly to Bangkokbkk December 26.

December 2, 2008 in Red Lodge
Good news! Thailand’s Prime Minister has been removed from office and in a few days the Bangkok airports will be reopened. We are verifying our flights on five different airlines.

It is interesting that the protesters who shut down the Bangkok airport helped clean it up before they left. We took this picture of one wing at BKK last year.

December 5, 2008 in Red Lodge
We’re about to depart for ana-and-betoAsia, but before leaving the USA we’ll spend a couple of days in California. In San Diego, we’ll visit our great friends Susan and Paul, and their gorgeous children Ana and Beto.

Have you EVER seen children this adorable? Seriously!

We’ll drive to Los Angeles to see a taping of The Late Late Show with Craig Ferguson.

The last time we attended a taping, it was the Tonight Show with Jay Leno. Jay came into the audience and spoke with Becky about our adventures in Borneo -- more specifically, the time Becky dropped one of the village chief’s human heads, breaking the jaw. (See the newest/best page and scroll down).

On December 10, Singapore Airlines will fly us to Tokyo and on to Singapore.

December 6, 2008 preparing to destroll-beckypart
Just before departing for Asia, we both played in the Red Lodge (Montana) Christmas Stroll.

Don played trumpet with the brass band Alte Kameraden (www.RedLodgeBand.com) and Becky played oboe with Mountain Winds. Becky is a charter member. Photo: Becky, left, with fellow musicians Tamara and Eliza. (Note their snazzy new band jackets).

With that, we’re off to California, and afer a couple of days, to Chiang Mai, Thailand.

DecemLeper_Community_00029ber 7, 2008: Leaving headquarters for Asia. As we departed the comfort of our Montana home, and in the spirit of the Christmas season, we sent financial support to a group of lepers on the outskirts of Pokhara, Nepal. We remember them as gentle people afflicted with a disease so traumatic so that their own families refuse to visit them.

They have been in our hearts since we left. We hope to make them a bit more comfortable. Now they will know that someone, somewhere, cares.

December 10, in Los Angeles, California
We won’t belabor it, but we are hisingapore-airlinesghly disappointed with Delta Airlines. Today, we’re off on one of the world’s best airlines (Singapore) to Tokyo, Singapore, and then Chiang Mai, Thailand, our temporary headquarters until early March, 2009.

It’ll be a comfortable but long flight. We’ll report from the other side of the pond.

December 19, 2009 in Chiang Mai
We’re in Thailand, settled in and planning adventures into western Thailand and northern Laos. We loved Singapore Airlines on the reclining-buddhaway over!

Chiang Mai is a photographer’s paradise. Check out this reclining buddha. The water bottles in the foreground are full size.

The weather has been absolutely perfect and we couldn’t be happier to be here. We’ll head to Bangkok and Kanchanaburi on December 26.

This expedition will be just under 90 days, shorter than previous adventures in SE Asia. Still, we’ve timed it for the best weather and so far we haven’t wasted a moment.

Much of our time is spent wandering from wat to wat. In this one, we couldn’t tell if the monk in the box was remonk-boxal. Don shot video, watching for signs of movement. He may not be a real person, but certainly is realistic.

In coming days we’ll venture further from the city. On December 26 we’ll fly to Bangkok, then take a bus to Kanchanaburi, site of the famous bridge over the river Kwai, where we used to live (see our logs for 2000 and 2001).

After returning to Chiang Mai, we’ll head overland into northern Laos, where we’ll explore extremely remote hill tribe villages.

December 24, 2008 in Chiang Mai
Christmas Eve in Asia. Here we are in Thailand -- again. We first came here at the end of our first year of adventure, late 2000. We’ve been drawn back many times since. Now we’re in our tenth year of travel, and find oSex-Change-400urselves in Asia.

This is an ad we ran across for plastic surgery -- and a lot more. Right in the middle (follow the red arrows) it mentions the availability of sex change surgery. It’s not even the lead item!

There are some other rather interesting items too.

It’s interesting to us that the Thai society is rather conservative overall, and yet quite tolerant of changing one’s gender. We’ve run into several people who have changed their sex, finding them quite pleased -- although one person was rather girl-on-motorbike-2concerned about having her boyfriend find out she was once a boy.

We are finding the people of Thailand every bit as welcoming as when we first lived here, in 2000. That’s one of the reasons we keep coming back. The food is another. Thailand’s geographic location is another. From here, one can travel by air, boat, bus or motorcycle to just about anywhere in Asia.

It is easy, when traveling in the mountains near Chiang Mai, to get the feeling of having gone back in time. Quickly, one fethai-747els the remoteness of the tiny hill tribe villages and the antiquity of the wats and monuments.

We felt that way yesterday. This morning, Don was standing in our apartment with his camera when a Thai Airlines 747 launched from the nearby airport. After he took this shot, everything seemed modern and new.

We are eager to return to Kanchanaburi, where we used to live, to celebrate the New Year. We’ll return to Chiang Mai for a few days, btmefore heading overland to Laos.

One of our old friends, “TM” (photo), will take a bus across the country to join us on New Year’s Day. It is a joy to have special friends from so many special places in the world.

We will not update this website until we return to Chiang Mai January 7, when we’ll have new photos and videos to share.

We have now traveled a third of a million miles since leaving our jobs on December 11, 1999. Every one has been a joy.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Next update: January 7, 2009.

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