This log is current to July 6, 2008

Back from Peru:
When returning from an expedition, we find it difficult to know which photos to post. We returned from Peru with 1,600 new shots, all in RAW format at 10mp.

After creating the previous pages, we selected a few additional pictures that we think help describe what one will find when traveling to Peru.

Becky spent a lot of time pondering the history of the Inca Empire. Here she studied the fortress at Ollantaytambo. She wondered how many thousands of people died making this stronghold over the Urubamba River? How many Spaniards died trying to destroy it? What was daily life like more than 500 years ago? What happened here is just as significant, we think, than what is left today.

While Becky was exploring with the still camera, Don was often atop a site with the high definition movie camera. (We’ve checked the video; it’s great).

Sometimes it was hard to believe we were deep in South America’s Andes Mountains, exploring cultures both present and long past. Lucky? Yes we are.

We we wished we could have stayed longer in Puno, since a two week celebration was just beginning. Bands, dancers and fireworks carried on through the night. We can only imagine the grand finale.

It was fascinating to see people from throughout the region placing colored sawdust on the street in dramatic and artistic displays, and watering it to keep it from blowing away. We have never seen this particular form of artwork, but it’s one the people here take seriously.

In the Sacred Valley, at Chinchero, we found the Sunday market to be a treasure trove -- not just of items to purchase, but of culture. This town lies between Cuzco and Urubamba.

The elevation here is 12,300 feet, and yet people carry heavy loads long distances and display them here. We found the goods here of high quality and outstanding price. Becky came home with beautiful Alpaca sweaters, making both buyer and seller happy.

Down the Urubamba River is Aguas Caliente, a town isolated from the world except for a rail line. It is the only town in close proximity to Machu Picchu, 2,000 feet above on a mountaintop.

The river was near flood stage, and we had read that the government had provided a piece of heavy equipment (which had to be brought by rail) to be used in flood control. Sure enough, it was hard at work when we arrived.

In previous seasons the river has washed out the railroad tracks, stranding thousands of visitors there to view the Inca citadel on the mountain.

The altitude here is just over 6,000 feet. We found ourselves ten thousand feet higher, while traveling from Arequipa to Colca canyon. There, our friend Art Daniel is accustomed to high altitudes, but only as a Boeing 747 airline captain. Still, he grabbed his trumpet, jumped out of our chartered vehicle, and proceeded to demonstrate that he could play even though it seemed to the rest of us there was barely enough oxygen to breathe.

There at 16,000 feet, he wasn’t the only one celebrating. Becky too was inspired by her walk at an altitude far above any point in the lower 48 United States.

We stayed at this altitude about twenty minutes before quickly descending more than 4,000 feet to a town at the head of Colca Canyon, from which we set off to see Condors in flight.

Our journey to Peru lasted one month, but we quickly realized this amazing nation has more than enough to keep one exploring its treasures much longer. This country has become a joy to visit.

In Cuzco, for example, small streets in the San Blas area are a treat to explore. One often encounters stone walls from the Inca era, standing there as if constructed the previous week.

Cuzco is hilly, and because of the altitude, it is imperative for anyone not accustomed to climbing stars at 11,200 feet to take it easy. That’s not hard to do, since treasures abound at every turn.

“Llama Ladies” are not hard to find -- although if you succumb to their offer to take their picture, you’ll be asked for a tip.

The highlights of Cuzco can be seen on a one-day guided tour. But we found it better to take our time an explore most sites on our own. In all, we spent nine nights here.

Our hotel was the Rumi Punku, which we heartily recommend. You will find our enthusiastic review online at Trip Advisor. Of all our hotels -- in Cuzco, Colca Canyon, Arequipa, Lima, Nazca, Aguas Caliente, Yucay, and Puno, this was a favorite. Anyone traveling here would be well advised to use this hotel.

While Peru has many treasures, most people agree that Machu Picchu is the most magnificent. It is not easy to get there, and exploration of the site is for the fit and hearty, but it is worth the effort.

There in the clouds (and indeed, during the rainy season from November to March days pass when it is not possible to see very much at all) this hidden mountaintop city awaits to inspire and amaze. One has to see the precipitous cliffs that protect this mountaintop in order to appreciate what it took to create it.

The llamas that live here seem completely at home, well satisfied that the marauding Spanish that killed so many Incas and destroyed as much of their culture as possible never found this treasured place.

It seemed to us that the fog and low clouds made it even more special. It is the kind of place that almost defies written explanation. One has to see it to believe it.

When we were here, on January 22, 2008, Don spent much of his time perched on the edge of cliffs, recording the video we hope to be able to watch decades from now.

Until now, we have not ventured into video making, but are glad we made the investment. The only “down side” is that when posted on YouTube, and this website, the quality is greatly reduced in order to permit reasonable download speeds.

 Machu Pichu is the kind of place that inspires the mind and soul...and a boy to kiss his girl. It and the special places throughout this nation are well worth the effort and expense to visit.

Peru hosts portions of the world’s driest desert. Here, you can also visit the heart of the Amazon basin, marvel at the accomplishments of the Inca civilization, see the world’s largest flying birds hunting carrion in the world’s deepest canyon, and sail in a reed boat on the world’s highest navigable lake.

Peru is a place of inspiration and awe.

February 25, 2008
NEW: Condors in flight. Also, great video of Machu Micchu. See them both on our videos page.

April 5, 2008
Check out the photos in our new photo gallery: Peru. Check out the latest videos.

April 16, 2008 at headquarters
Back at headquarters in Montana, ski season has officially closed. As members of the regionally renowned Alte Kameraden Band, we played an end-of-season gig on Red Lodge Mountain.

This is one of our drummers.

April 22, 2008
Check our our new video (at bottom of page) of our band’s director playing nine notes a second!

May 11, 2008
Plans are coming together for our next 3-month expedition later this year. You’ll find us exploring the Mekong into China. Headquarters will be at the Viangbua Serviced Apartments in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Medical Note: On June 4, in Billings, Montana, Don will undergo his third major spinal surgery in three years. The Anterior Lumbar Interbody Fusion, resulting in the fusion of five vertebrae, will not affect Expedition plans.

June 8, 2008 back at Expedition headquarters.
The operation was a success, and Don now has five fused vertebrae. He’s in a lot of pain, and will have to wear a brace for three months.

July 1, 2008 at headquarters
We are deep into plans for our next expedition. Late this year, we will establish temporary headquarters in Chiang Mai, Thailand. After visiting our favorite places from previous adventures in the area, we will charter a series of boats to take us up the Mekong River into southern China. Plans after that are not yet, but we anticipate traveling east, eventually dropping back down into Vietnam or Laos, and making our way back to northern Thailand.

Previous Log
Next Log