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This log is current through September 20, 2009 The first stop on our second 2009 trip to Asia will be Nepal. Readers have asked how we plan expeditio Kathmandu is not to be taken lightly. To many visitors, it is dirty, aggressive, even shocking. We thought that too, upon first arrival two trips ago. But after spending many months in Nepal, we not only came to accept its challenges, we found it fascinating. The “tourist center” of the massive city is called Thamel. Most visitors stay in this are, which bustles with shops, restaurants and street hustlers. To a degree, Kathmandu accepted us. One English language magazine featured our travels in a cover st We spoke about traveling for the sake of coming to understand the values and challenges of other cultures. We quickly learned the Nepalese people were interested in us, and our culture. Unlike in a few countries, the people here did not treat us like walking ATM machines. We soon found ourselves in a state of mutual respect with people whose challenges in life are vastly greater than ours. We found people carrying bricks at construction sites -- twelve hours at a stretch for a dollar or two a day. We formed friendships with people who, as children, had been abandoned in remote villages, or on the streets of Kathmandu. We found that people accepted these things -- and even learned to live with one of the most corrupt governments we have ever seen -- and yet always had a smile and o Initially, we felt we were running a gauntlet. Kids, mostly boys, hustled us constantly. Then we came to realize that many of these children had been orphaned on the streets of the city. They were sleeping there, or in vacant fields nearby. Shop owners were anything but wealthy, and many were supporting family members in the mountains, where they feared the Maoists. During our first expedition, we headquartered at Hotel Thamel. The second time it was a hotel next door. We have upgraded this time to a hotel nearby. We select accommodations based on personal recom Photo: These children are orphans. They survive mostly by working the tourists. They slept in an empty lot next to our hotel. We set our budget based on what we can afford at the time, and sometimes negotiate lower rates by staying long periods. Our primary goal is to live as much like locals as possible. For example, during our first of many expeditions in Thailand, we took an apartment by the month. But because Nepal is so politi The people of Nepal are survivors. We were amazed by their character and resolve to do their best, no matter the challenges. Kathmandu has many challenges, including electrical shortages. The power is off many hours each day. Although we travel outside the city, we have headquartered in Kathmandu. Ventures to other parts of the country are taken by air. When flying in Nepal, it is impo We have learned that an airline to avoid is Royal Nepal. They fly within Nepal and internationally, and are extremely unreliable. Once, while we were there, EVERY one of their international aircraft, no matter where they were in the world, was grounded by mechanical difficulties. We have flown two other airlines -- Yeti and Buddha -- and will do so again. It appears to us that Buddha has the newer planes and more frequent schedules, so after flyi We have long felt that travel is a valuable form of education, that until you come to know people in remote places and experience life as they do (to the degree possible), you can’t understand or full respect them. We have tried to do this in dozens of countries, and have yet to be disappoint It was a cultural shock for us, during both previous adventures in Nepal, to witness public cremations. They occur quickly after death, there being almost no refrigerated facilities to preserve bodies for a few days. Yet, scenes like this -- and the many other cultural and historical qualities unique to Nepal, keep drawing us back. This time we are being drawn by a four year old girl. Her name is Meena Lama. We were advised that her parents in a remote mountain villa She was rescued and brought to Kathmandu, where she is now living with a family in which the “father,” Sandup, was himself once a homeless orphan on the streets. We have agreed to support this girl financially, to provide everything she requires in life, including whatever education is available, through to adulthood. She will live a much longer and better life than the one she was born into. She doesn’t know who we are -- but will soon. After returning from Sikkim, we will fly to Pokhara, west of Kathmandu. There, Becky and Sandup will venture into the Himalayan mountains for ten days. While Don’s back won’t a In planning this adventure, we tried to secure the services of a helicopter to reach Meena’s village. That proved much too expensive. Just a lift part way...to “day four” on the famous Annapurna Circuit...would have cost well over $4,000. In researching the options, we used the Internet, contacts in Kathmandu and California, and American Express Platinum Concierge Service (which proved friendly, but not very effective). While Becky and Sandup are in the towering mountains, Don will be visiting the Lepers we first met years ago. They live in a small community on the outskirts of Pokhara and are thrilled when anyone visits. Photo: a gro Even with their physical and societal challenges, these people brim with friendless and optimism. It’s one more reason we return to Nepal. Another is a Pokhara school for blind students. This is a real success story, and we met many young people there who charmed and inspired us. In Kathmandu, we have supported a group of seven blind girls who would otherwise have had very short life expectancies. Instead, they are receiving a basic education, are learning to make items for sale in Thamel tou Don will stay at a hotel in Pokhara while Becky and Sandup are in the mountains. We will buy an Iridium satellite phone for Becky’s use, in case of mishap in the mountains. When Becky and Sandup return to Pokhara, Sandup will fly back to Kathmandu (his second trip on an airplane) while we hire a car to take us south, to the Royal Chitwan National Park. There, we hope to see wild animals such as rhinos and tigers. (Rhino photo courtesy Hima We will return to Kathmandu for two days before continuing on to Bangkok, Thailand for a night, and then on to Vietnam. We consider weather conditions the most important factor in planning tr We consider the period from mid October to early December (when it can get very cold) the best of all. The weather in Sikkim, India is similar, although there never is a truly dry period. The weather in Vietnam will be good at this time in Hanoi but occasionally rainy in Nha Trang and Saigon. Overall, this is the best compromise. Expenses: People often ask what this costs. When we first began traveling, we pinched every penny and often found great deals. In Mexico we paid $250 per month for rent. Our first apartment in Thailand (three bedrooms) was $165 per month. But finding bargains takes time and, to some degree, luc Photo: our home in Kanchanaburi, Thailand. More recently, we have been upgrading our transportation (business class air) and lodging choices. Since we began traveling in 1999, Don has endured three major spinal surgeries and needs more comfortable accommodations. Flying business class can be five or more times as expensive as economy, so it is more economical to spread that expense across a longer period of time. We have found China Airlines much less expensive than Singapore Air (with a commensurate difference in quality). Our second Asia trip of 2009 will be our shortest ever: just 46 days in Asia. It will also be our most expensive, with more travel by air and more comfortable lodging. We find that w We decided to fly a series of flights from Salt Lake City, Utah to Los Angeles, Taipei, Bangkok, and Kathmandu (K). After five days, we’ll fly to eastern Nepal (B). After nine days in Sikkim, (India, just east of Nepal) we’ll return to Kathmandu, and two days later continue on to Pokhara (P), where Becky will hike into the Annapurna Circuit for nine days while Don stays in Pokhara. After a side trip to Royal Chitwan national park to se wild animals, we’ll return to Kathmandu and fly on to Bangkok and on to Vietnam. For our four flights within Nepal we are using Yeti Airlines, and Buddha Airlines. Our very responsive travel agent is Amici Treks and Expedition. Email address: amici@wlink.com.np. |
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ffer of assistance to strangers.
mendations, and in consultation with websites such as TripAdvisor. We also carry the latest copies of Lonely Planet and other country-specific guides.
cally and economically challenged, we stayed in hotels instead.
rtant to allow plenty of extra time. Many flights are VFR (visual flight rules) only, and are often delayed canceled by bad weather or fog.
ng to Kathmandu from Salt Lake City, Utah (via Los Angeles, Taipei and Bangkok) we will rest up for five days and then fly to the eastern side of the country. We will be picked up by a driver and guide and taken into Sikkim (Nepal) for a nine day exploration (details in the next log).
ed (except perhaps in far southeastern Indonesia, where our presence never failed to inspire staring contests).
ge (a 15 day trek) were unable to care for her. She was found begging for food and a place to sleep.
llow him to participate, those two and a porter will seek out and try to understand the forces in remote villages that obligate people to abandon their children.
up of lepers whose own family members seldom, if ever, visit.
rist shops, and have a comfortable room and nourishing meals.
ltrek.)
ips like these. In Nepal, we wait for the monsoons to end in late September or early October. There is a short period of several weeks after the rains stop and before the skies turn gray with air pollution and smoke from slash and burn farming. During this period, the world’s highest mountain range comes into view (picture).
ky.
hen we have less time, we have less room to correct problems. Thus, the obligation to upgrade from the beginning. We’ll be home in time for Becky’s season on the Red Lodge Mountain ski runs.