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This log runs through October 6, 2000 August 8, 2000 in Belle Fourche, SD Further down the road we came to the northernmost point of the Rocky Mountains, and beautiful Muncho Lake -- a place appreciated not only by Alaska Highway travelers, but by Alaska Highway goats, which seemed to care very little about us. During those long days we decided that rather than driving to the East Coast this summer and fall, we'll go to Europe! We researched our options, focusing on Ireland, Portugal and Spain, finally deciding on Portugal. We are thrilled with our decision, and Rebecca is very excited about introducing Don to some of her favorite places in the world, which happen to be in Portugal. After visiting Don's family in Livingston, Montana, and making preparations for the flight to Portugal on August 21, we drove across Montana to Belle Fourche, SD, near Sturgis, where hundreds of thousands of motorcycle enthusiasts gather annually. The entire area is swarming with motorcycles! Don wants one. Rebecca can live without it. CLICK HERE to view enlargeable South Dakota photos. August 9, 2000 in Belle Fourche, SD
Although the Gypsy Wagon Expedition supports fair profit margins, we, as full time travelers who are also dependent on fairly priced tourist goods and services, find ourselves in an official snit over what appears to be gross opportunism. If we were managing a large motel chain famous for its crumminess, we would think twice before ripping off people who could relocate future events -- or who could quickly reduce our establishment to a heap of rubble. Tuesday, August 15, 2000 in Livingston, Montana CLICK HERE to view enlargeable Montana photos. We're busy sorting and sifting our stuff, recognizing that we'll be carrying on our backs almost everything needed for nearly two months in Portugal. When we return in mid-October, we'll have only two weeks to sort and sift some more in preparation for the following six months in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and southern China. August 26, in Sintra, PORTUGAL We had a few initial irritations upon arrival in Portugal, greatly aggravated by jet lag. First, the Portuguese ATM banking machines would not accept our regular credit card, so we had to get 'escudos' by using a backup credit card. We had no great difficulty in taking public transportation to central Lisbon then to our final destination of Sintra. However, once there, we failed to closely follow our plan to find local lodging (which was to choose a local cafe, eat a bite, then take turns seeking out a room for rent, while the other of us watches our heavy luggage). Instead, we let ourselves get sidetracked when a few very well-meaning locals made recommendations, gave directions, and mentioned cheap rooms. We led ourselves on a climb and hike up and down the meandering back streets of this mountainside city, in search of the right deal fast -- all while carrying our 75 pounds of stuff on our backs. We knocked on the doors of strangers and asked for directions (something we didn't do that often in Washington, DC), and finally an innkeeper took pity on us. Maria loaded us and our gear into her tiny car, and drove us on a high speed, death-defying drag race up and down the mystifying, narrow streets of the city. With only three or four frighteningly close-calls, we arrived safely at our destination, which was the apartment of the kind Portuguese widow, Aurora. Aurora has an apartment in Sintra with a large, extra bedroom she rents out to visitors, and we were her guests for two nights. She must think all Americans are very lazy, since we slept 18 hours the first day. Even Aurora's rented room seemed much more expensive than Rebecca's previous visits to this city of Sintra, so we were discouraged about finding an apartment or house we could afford for a longer period. However, we befriended the nice men at the Turismo office, who gave us a lead on a Portuguese landlord who owns several rental properties. On the spot, Philippe The Landlord came to the Turismo office and drove us to his cheapest available apartment in the Sintra area. It's still more than we wanted to pay, but we agreed to rent it for two weeks with the option of extending. It's actually a very civilized, furnished basement apartment with two bedrooms, kitchen, private patio and satellite TV, in a quiet and convenient location. It's near enough to the Sintra train station that we can easily hop on trains to Lisbon, which depart several times an hour. Still, this place costs more than three times the price of last winter's apartment in La Penita, Mexico (exactly 5,629 great circle miles from here). But we are in one of Portugal's most cherished locations, at high season, and the cost is more than worth it. We're stocking our new home with perfectly fine red and white wine for less than $3/bottle! Now that we've settled into our new home and have caught up on sleep, Don is thrilled and amazed with the beauty of Sintra. "What a fairy tale place this is. It looks like a Disney creation." Everywhere we look are castles, palaces, sparkling countryside scenes and colorful houses lining the narrow, curving and steep streets -- like ours. Even the community municipal building is special. It’s one of Rebecca’s favorite places, but she's never before shared them with her favorite person, so it's a special feeling to be able to introduce Don to these places. One can sit for hours in this idyllic setting, soaking it all in -- or view it from a horse drawn carriage. It's a wonderful reinforcement of our decision to set off on this multiyear world tour. Yes, our next 45 days are going to be wonderful. CLICK HERE to view enlargeable Portugal photos. August 27, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal August 31, 2000 near Sintra, Portugal After serving for centuries as an Arab fortification, the Moorish castle was abandoned in 1147 when Portugal became a nation. We felt a sense of awe and exhilaration -- and exhaustion -- while climbing the ramparts high above the valley below. Looking down on the Sintra National Palace far below (yes, another palace!) made us realize how fortunate we are to be here. We really intend this website to be a "how to" for long-term travel rather than a travelogue, but bear with us a moment on the stunning mountaintop Pena Palace (entrance to this 'national palace' is $2.80). Built in the 1840s on the site of a 15th century convent by Portuguese royalty, the Pena castle is a fantasy of domes, towers and ramparts. It has terrific views in all directions, especially the beach resorts to the south and west to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in mainland Europe. It reminds one of the mock-medieval castles of Ludwig of Bavaria and is considered superior to the Neuschwanstein Castle there. Photos are not allowed to be taken inside, but we assure you this sensational place was fit for the kings and queens who lived here. This area is easy to reach, with just a flight to Lisbon. Right now there are special airfares from America. Then take the Aerobus to the Rosso train station ($2), and hop on the Sintra train. One leaves every 15 minutes (95 cents) and arrives in Sintra, end of the line, 50 minutes later. Then brace yourself for a wonderful experience -- and a lot of steep, aerobic walking. These are just the kinds of nooks and crannies we sought when we left our jobs to travel full time. If we're going to end up tired at the end of a day, it won't be because we spent too many years playing "political gotcha" in Washington, DC! September 2, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal Monday, September 4, 2000 in Lisbon, Portugal September 6, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal Thursday, September 7, 2000 in Lisbon, Portugal Still, what a great day we had. We love walking the streets of Lisbon -- a city that still has a smaller town feeling. Artistry and character is everywhere one looks, even in the long stairways and streets of apartment buildings. On the map we found an intersecting street that it didn't appear possible to enter from where we were. We soon found out why. The street was overhead! September 9, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal Fado (Portuguese for "fate") was rooted in melancholic traditional Portuguese folk songs, religious hymns, and Brazilian melodies brought to the country by Brazilian students who studied at the university early last century. This sentimental, colorfully poetic vocal music also featured the newly popular Portuguese guitar. During our big night out (even though an evening like this is inexpensive by American standards, we can't do this often), we met the Celine Dion of Portugal, a woman who sang beautifully. When we complimented her performance afterward , she said that it's her greatest aspiration to become like Celine.
September 14, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal The other day we took the train half way to Lisbon and visited the Nacional Palacio de Queluz. We took advantage of the Portuguese government's policy of allowing free access to all National Palaces on Sunday mornings. It's a lovely, rambling estate in colors more muted than some palaces -- a lot of pastels, inside and out. Less imposing than other castles on the outside, the inside contains huge ballrooms, wonderful inlaid wood furniture, musical instruments, ancient royal carriages, bedrooms, and royal reception rooms. President Eisenhower was the last American president here, and diplomats throughout history as well as today, continue to visit this lovely place. Outside, French-style gardens and statues were weather worn but enchanting. On the palace grounds, there's a luxurious 'pousada' hotel, which occupies the former palace kitchen building. It's among the most expensive places to stay in the country. But today came the best treats. We bought one-week bus passes (US$ 14.50) and set off to see the area north of Sintra. WOW! Beginning with a ride on a cute old electric tram, the day was crammed with the sites, sights and the very experiences we had hoped to find here. Praia das Macas was a lovely town overlooking the beach -- but the real treat was the spectacular cliff village of Azenhas do Mar. From the people we saw people fishing off a 200 ft. cliff, to the town itself, this place has no peer. The town of Azenhas do Mar is stunning, precariously perched high above the Atlantic with houses built into the hillside all the way down to sea water swimming pool and beach at sea level. Not only is this place a wonderful visual and historical treat, there are some equally delightful people here. Here we made new friends Jouquin and Inez at the pub/sports bar/snack shop called Bris do Mar, right in the middle of town. We would like to spend our final week or two in this town, since we're really crazy about it. We house-hunted a bit, but were unable to find an acceptable rental. Jouquin and Inez will be keeping an eye open for opportunities for us. If something turns up, this would be a marvelous way to cap our Portuguese experience in early October. In more routine news, while we were gone today our landlord responded to our telephone request, replacing the empty hot water propane bottle and had the sink faucet fixed. It's mundane, yes. But life on the road is not devoid of little inconveniences. September 18, 2000 in Sintra, Portuga Over the weekend, in Lisbon, we were strolling down the very hip street of Rua Garrett late at night, after visiting an Internet cafe ("Cyber Bica"), and came across the filming of a music video. The film crew was on the pedestrian street, filming a window display where a handsome singer named Francisco Mendez was dancing and singing to a flock of cute girls. Rebecca caught Francisco's eye during a break in the filming, and he waved hysterically at her through the window of the music store. Portugal has a problem -- graffiti. We've tried not to dwell on it, but it's everywhere, and it really detracts from the historic and scenic value of this wonderful area. Most of it is just like in the US, and looks like illegible hieroglyphics. It's terrible. September 19, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal This means, of course, that we'll accelerate our sightseeing to avoid missing anything critical. Problem is, many years could be spent here without running out of crannies to explore. However, if there is a possible positive side to departing a few days early, it's the weather. No longer are the days as hot and sunny, and recent evenings have turned chilly. Oh, food! We're sorry we didn't take pictures, but the other day we ate our first whole Octopus (polvo). It was served in olive oil and garlic, and was tender and great. A few days later we tried a local delicacy, Caracois...tiny snails. Having been steamed in a stew of olive oil, garlic, and lot of other spices, a hundred or so are served in their shells, sometimes along a few small pieces of sausage. It takes a little courage to eat them at first, because they look like common garden snails (and may be), with their little heads and antenna protruding out as if they were minding their own business when disaster struck. The challenge of the eater is to spear them with a toothpick and drag the steamed creature out of its former home. Barbaric, I know -- but great for a guy on a high protein diet. The $3 dish is a Portuguese version of French escargot, but cheerfully served without the ridiculous expense and a snotty attitude. (Later) We now feel badly about caracois because we learned that when cooking them, the cook has ways of making them think they can escape their fate -- and they die as they partially extend themselves from their shell. That makes it easier for the eater to spear them with a toothpick. September 20, 2000 in Sintra, Portugal September 22, 2000 at the westernmost point in mainland Europe The next morning, we took the bus to the westernmost point in Europe, Cabo da Roca. Our GPS agreed with the coordinates on the plaque (N38 degrees 46.822 minutes, west 9 degrees 29.938 minutes). We hiked down the cliff for a little picnic before hopping on another bus to Azenhas do Mar, where our friends Jouquin and Inez, delightful owners of the delightful Cafe Bris do Mar, (it's easy to find, fellow travelers...Stagecoach Bus 441 stops right at the door) greeted Becky with a birthday cake! That was followed by a sunset dinner in perfect weather at an outdoor restaurant atop the cliff. It just doesn't get any better than this. September 24, 2000 in Mafra, Portugal September 27, 2000 in Lisbon, Portugal Don barely escaped a team of pickpockets at a bus stop, but other otherwise Lisbon and all the delightful towns we've visited have been total treats. We have a few more thoughts and photos to share from these inspirational six weeks here, but we're running out of Internet Server space so they will be added after we buy more space during our brief period in the USA preparing for our flight from Los Angeles to Bangkok October 25. September 29, 2000....leaving Portugal When we have grown weary of constant travel, we will return to some special place. The sights, sounds and history of Portugal will place it high on our list of candidates. We hope we can live here aboard our own sailboat, and can share this place with friends near and far. No matter what, we will never forget the marvelous little town among the castles and palaces of Portugal. October 6, 2000 in Livingston, Montana We flew to Salt Lake City and drove to South Dakota and on to Montana. Now our focus turns to Asia and after picking up the trailer in Wyoming, dragging it to California to look at sailboats and on to Arizona for storage, we'll be in Thailand before the end of the month. We were stunned by a road sign along the freeway at Beulah, Wyoming. Apparently all the efforts to stem drunken driving have been overlooked in Beulah, because a big sign along the road lures drivers to a gas station where, if you put gasoline in your car's tank, you can toss down a free draft beer while you wait. Talk about encouraging drinking and driving! Political correctness, and maybe even common sense, has yet to reach NE Wyoming. CLICK HERE to view enlargeable Wyoming photos.) We have become very excited about buying a sailboat. Good thing we'll be in Thailand for a few months, thereby avoiding an impulsive purchase. But when we return in March, we'll be seriously on a mission to find the right one. Already we're thinking about names. How about Soul Provider...or Distant Drums? Or perhaps Gypsy Breeze. The name we like best right now is Pura Vida....a wonderful Costa Rican expression for "pure life," or "enjoying life to its fullest." We'll know the right name when we meet the right boat. But for now, on to SE Asia. PREVIOUS LOG or |
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The bikers seem remarkably well-behaved. We have yet to meet anyone who wasn't cheerful and pleasant, which we think surprising the inflated prices of things here. We were stunned to see a posted price of $96 for a single at a Motel Six which normally asks $36 or less, in a town 20 miles from the center of activity. And local restaurants are using "special" menus -- meaning inflated food prices for all of the visitors.
We also met a pack of performers who looked as much like Gypsies as one can imagine. They danced on the little stage and, in their own folk-music way, really rocked! It was very enchanting and encouraging to see young people actively involved with historic Portuguese culture.
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