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Current through February 14, 2005 January 1, 2005 Culebra, Spanish Virgin Islands January 3, 2005 on a ferry We’ll pick up boat parts and our 2005 U.S. Customs sticker. It will help expedite paperwork when we return to the U.S. in the Spring. (Ferry cost: $2.50 each way, PP). January 5, 2005 in Culebra January 7, 2005 in Culebra This involved three men dressed up as kings driving around in the pickup truck bearing loud speakers -- arriving to give presents to the children on the island. The event was loosely organized and we somehow missed the other part of the event, people riding around town on horses. January 16,2005 in Culebra, the Spanish Virgin Islands Although there was every indication that our e-mails had gone out okay since arriving here, we learned that none sent since December 22 actually went out through Culebra Wireless, the most expensive service we’ve ever paid for. For the past two days this Internet connection hasn’t been working at all. (Later update: we asked for a partial refund but were denied. The owner was rather indignant that we posted the problem on this website). This photo show the owner atop a distant house with the cooler that marks his antenna. For the service to work, you have to be able to see this cooler.
Not indigenous, a handful of these creatures was introduced here. They seem quite at home around people. The other day one hopped onto a restaurant table and grabbed some hamburger left by the recently departed patrons. Still, once used to them, it’s rather fascinating having these prehistoric-looking creatures sitting or swimming nearby.
We were a bit concerned to find a shark lurking under Pioneer, and limited our swimming after that. But the beach is as fine as you’ll find anywhere. Huge turtles (a protected area) frequently swam by Pioneer and we saw deer on the beach. It’s one of the most beautiful places we have found. Hiking to the NE end of the anchorage, we came to a place where waves crash wildly, creating pools. We were wary of them because every so often huge waves crash over the protective rocks -- and this was on the calmest day in six weeks. Becky and her delightful Theta friend Svea from the sailboat Billy Ruff’n climbed to the top of Culebrita where an ancient lighthouse dominates the 350’ island top. Too bad we can display all of the 105 photos she took there. This is a view of the Tortuga anchorage on the NE corner of Culebrita from the lighthouse. As Svea told Becky, “You’ve spent years looking for the world’s most fascinating nooks and crannies, and you’ve now found a great one.” We can’t stay long here. Although beautiful, we don’t want to be here when a north wind arrives. This anchorage (see the anchorage log, button on the left) affords little wind and wave protection from that direction. January 20, 2005 in the Spanish Virgins February 2, 2005 in Salinas, Puerto Rico Further west, we found Ensenada Honda a terrific “Hurricane Hole.” At the eastern end of the anchorage a tiny mangrove lined creek would be the perfect place to snug a boat in a major storm. But only if you actually get there. We nearly ran aground in the middle of the bay. Warning to sailors: we touched bottom when passing .2 miles to the north and east of the northernmost set of charted rocks. Be aware that the shallow north side of these rocks extends further north than charted. Don’t turn east too soon. This area has no rescue services, or even dwellings. This photo was taken in perfect weather. You can imagine how difficult it would be to see these rocks in a storm. Stay 0.3 miles away. Further west, Sun Bay at Ensenada also has no Come here not needing water or fuel, and be prepared to walk long distances. It’s a mile dinghy ride to the beach nearest the town, and dinghies left there have been stolen, or had contents stolen. Don’s doctor (back problem) had a sailboat until January 20, 2005, when it was stolen. AMAZING! While photos are impossible, we discovered something so astounding it’s hard to describe. Mosquito Bay (aka “Bio Bay”) is a mile-wide brackish bay that drains to the ocean via a narrow channel east of Esperanza on southern Vieques. It is teeming and absolutely electric with brilliant bioluminescence. Tiny phosphorescent organisms, up to half a million per gallon, radiate brilliantly when disturbed by any movement. It is a magical, natural light-making process similar to that used by fireflies. When looking down at night into the dark water, any movement, the darting of a fish for example, sets off a glowing halo that follows and brightly outlines the movement. When swimming in the 73 degree water at night, a person’s slightest movement makes the water glow as if the moving part were a neon tube. We made breathtaking “snow angels” with our arms and legs. When raising our arms out of the water, thousands of brilliant spotlights that looked like cascading electric champagne bubbles ran down our arms. This sounds like exaggeration, but is not. The bay is so stunning that it alone would justify a trip to Vieques. It must be what Walt Disney saw before making Fantasia. On January 1 we sailed to Puerto Patilla, Puerto Rico, and the next day on to Salinas, where we found a super-sailor! His wooden boat (he made it himself) is 26 feet long, 15 feet wide (about the dimensions of many American living rooms) and draws only 18 inches. His longest time at sea so far was thirty days (Brazil to the SE Caribbean). We first met Brian and his friend in Culebra and hope to cross their wake often as we work our way westward. January 4, 2005 in Salinas, PR We conclude this log in Salinas, Puerto Rico as we prepare to continue westward to Coffin Island, then Ponce plus one other stop before Boqueron, on the SW coast. From there we may stop on Mona Island before continuing on to the north side of the Dominican Republic.
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It’s somewhat startling when a three-foot Iguana shows up.
We sailed to the island of Culebrita, NE of Culebra. Dangerous reefs made the Tortuga anchorage on the NE corner difficult to get into, but well worth it. What a paradise.
services for boaters, but does have a terrific mile-long beach along a groomed park. Holding is good if your anchor hits a patch of sand. In grass, it’s only fair.
Brian, the owner of this tiny catamaran called Magic Carpet is on a world circumnavigation. He began in South Africa in early 2000 and thinks it will take about ten years to make the orbit.